{"id":469680,"date":"2025-10-02T23:47:26","date_gmt":"2025-10-02T23:47:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/469680\/"},"modified":"2025-10-02T23:47:26","modified_gmt":"2025-10-02T23:47:26","slug":"paris-fashion-week-thursday-mugler-rick-owens-and-schiaparelli","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/469680\/","title":{"rendered":"Paris Fashion Week Thursday: Mugler, Rick Owens, and Schiaparelli"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n Published<\/b>
\n <\/p>\n

October 2, 2025<\/p>\n

\n \u200bParis enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas\u2019 respectful couture interpretation of Mugler, along with two radically different visions of glamour by fellow Americans \u2013 Daniel Roseberry of Texas and Rick Owens<\/a> of California.
\u00a0<\/p>\n

Mugler: Reeking of glamour in La R\u00e9publique<\/p>\n

Thursday\u2019s big debut was by Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler, who invited guests down into an underground parking garage near La R\u00e9publique. But if the location was gloomy, the show reeked of glamor.<\/p>\n

See fashion show<\/a>\"MuglerMugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n

Miguel joined Mugler with an impressive CV, and there were dollops of his various stints with many major houses and designers \u2013 fantasy cocktails with echoes of John Galliano<\/a>, and strict tailoring from his days at Raf Simons<\/a>‘ Dior<\/a>.
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Though, above all, this was a couture-worthy interpretation of Mugler, that harked back to the early ’90s when Thierry exploded into haute couture after his beginnings as a ready-to-wear creator. And to a decade later, when Mugler staged truly revolutionary aviary collections.<\/p>\n

Miguel\u2019s most beautiful looks riffed on that \u2013 two birds of paradise, beguilingly constructed feathered jackets and skirts, showing a designer very much in charge of his atelier. Made in collaboration with Maison F\u00e9vrier<\/a>, a particular genius French feather resource located above the Moulin Rouge<\/a>.<\/p>\n

See fashion show<\/a>\"MuglerMugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n

Miguel\u2019s skilful draping of second-skin leathers in ruched cocktails and gowns completed with leather flowers was boldly dramatic. As was the way he constructed moulded shoulders and necklines that sat off the torso, while his silicon suits with exaggerated hips were excellent.
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At times, there was so much beige one could not help recalling he once worked for the Max Mara<\/a> group. Albeit, leavened by a soup\u00e7on of lingerie and transparency to keep things racy, and a series of curtain dresses leaving multiple nipples exposed.
\u00a0
Castro Freitas joined Mugler in March, succeeding Casey Cadwallader, and his grander style eschewed the obsession with S&M that characterized his predecessor\u2019s reign.<\/p>\n

See fashion show<\/a>\"MuglerMugler – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n

The house of Mugler is today controlled by beauty giant L\u2019Or\u00e9al, and like most houses run by perfume corporations, the business direction is to emphasize red carpet, influencer and editorial coverage, and not to build a substantial ready-to-wear business.
\u00a0
In that sense, Castro Freitas\u2019 collection seems very suitable. It had drama, polish and pizzazz. And a good front row with Naomi Watts<\/a>, Eva Herzigov\u00e1 and Pamela Anderson<\/a>, sporting a redhead look.
\u00a0
Rick Owens: Temple on a fountain\u00a0
Rick Owens shows are more like works of performance art than mere displays of clothes. His latest spectacle on a cloudy Thursday afternoon turned out to be an epic event.<\/p>\n

See fashion show<\/a>\"RickRick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n

Returning to his preferred locale \u2013 the mammoth fountain of the Palais de Tokyo<\/a>. And marching his gaunt and glam cast marching down a massive metal stairway right into the water. Dry ice drifting about, scores of speakers booming out Basstrologe\u2019s dramatic remix of “Somebody to Love”, a pen to loyalty in romance. Starring the magnificent vocals of Grace Slick, the Acid Queen and greatest singer from the psychedelic era in California, Rick\u2019s home state.
\u00a0
The show took place just meters away from “Temple of Love”, the bravura exhibition of Owens\u2019 work currently being staged inside the Mus\u00e9e Galliera<\/a>. Like his menswear show in June, which kicked off the retrospective, this collection was entitled “Temple”.\u00a0<\/p>\n

See fashion show<\/a>\"RickRick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n

\u201cThis exhibition tracks the pursuit of glamour and sleaze that I was looking for on Hollywood boulevard, and eventually, improbably, ended up displaying in a Paris Museum. I have always thought of what I do as a fascination with the denseness of European aesthetic sophistication seen through a filter of American bluntness,\u201d opined Rick in his program note.
\u00a0
In this very bold collection, the sophistication came in the out-there draping; surreally hung frocks; power-shoulder technical organza dresses; and the remarkable fabrics. Recycled nylon tulle embroidered with sequins; or veg-tanned heavyweight leathers crafted by London designer, Straytukay.
<\/p>\n

See fashion show<\/a>\"RickRick Owens – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – France – Paris – \u00a9Launchmetrics\/spotlight<\/p>\n

The bluntness in the slashed and fringed oversized leather pants worn with the house\u2019s signature Perspex heeled jackboots ideal for walking in water and for stomping around to Grace Slick\u2019s greatest anthem.
\u00a0<\/p>\n

Schiaparelli: Dancing in the Dark<\/p>\n

Daniel Roseberry entitled this spring\/Summer 2026 collection “Dancer in The Dark” and it was very much his raciest, after-hours selection of clothes.<\/p>\n

\"SchiaparelliSchiaparelli Spring\/Summer 2026 collection in Paris – Courtesy<\/p>\n

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There is a new refined sexiness present on European runways, and Roseberry\u2019s latest ideas seem very much of the now.
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His tailoring was strict, suggesting a domineering female, authoritative and powerful. Snug, neat mess jackets and pencil skirts, exposing midriff \u2013 a current rage. Leather second-skin cocktails were embossed around the bosom, others were perforated showing lots of flesh.
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Several of Daniel\u2019s models seemed to get entangled in a series of crushed satin looks that didn\u2019t really work, before he got back on track with some beautiful white transparent jersey looks, that founder Elsa would surely have loved.<\/p>\n

\"SchiaparelliSchiaparelli Spring\/Summer 2026 collection in Paris – Courtesy<\/p>\n

Quoting Yves Saint Laurent<\/a>, who called Schiap’, \u201ca comet illuminating the Paris skyline, determined to dominate.\u201d Roseberry clearly wants his clients to do the same thing.\u00a0
\u00a0
All the way to the hyper-sheer polkadot chiffon jumpsuit in which Kendall Jenner<\/a> prowled around the after-midnight set. Build inside the top floor of the currently under restoration Pompidou Center, the black carpet twisting, illuminated by theatrical floor lighting \u2013 giving the proceedings a faintly diabolical air. And all the better for that.\n <\/p>\n

\n Copyright \u00a9 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Published October 2, 2025 \u200bParis enjoyed yet another debut Thursday: Miguel Castro Freitas\u2019 respectful couture interpretation of Mugler,…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":469681,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,4],"tags":[952,748,16766,393,2584,156409,156406,4884,145346,43702,38723,15909,66019,156408,5775,1144,155138,38294,84424,15910,156407,155543,73869,712,156405,16,15,1764,156410],"class_list":{"0":"post-469680","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-uk","8":"category-united-kingdom","9":"tag-beauty","10":"tag-britain","11":"tag-dior","12":"tag-england","13":"tag-fashion","14":"tag-fevrier","15":"tag-galliera","16":"tag-great-britain","17":"tag-john-galliano","18":"tag-kendall-jenner","19":"tag-loreal","20":"tag-luxury","21":"tag-max-mara","22":"tag-moulin-rouge","23":"tag-network","24":"tag-northern-ireland","25":"tag-palais-de-tokyo","26":"tag-pamela-anderson","27":"tag-paris-fashion-week","28":"tag-professionals","29":"tag-raf-simons","30":"tag-rick-owens","31":"tag-saint-laurent","32":"tag-scotland","33":"tag-thierry-mugler","34":"tag-uk","35":"tag-united-kingdom","36":"tag-wales","37":"tag-watts"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@uk\/115307246788484014","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/469680","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=469680"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/469680\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/469681"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=469680"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=469680"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=469680"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}