![\"A](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/0e3b67b8-ab6e-4260-acf3-498fa1b5b000.jpg\")
<\/p>\nEdinburgh\u2019s pubs have always been more than watering holes: from the Oxford Bar, where Rebus broods into his pint, to the Hawes Inn, where Stevenson once lured the hero of Kidnapped towards his fate, the city\u2019s boozers come steeped in plotlines and pipe smoke. This is a capital that prefers its pints with a side of atmosphere \u2014 low-lit, wood-panelled, slightly conspiratorial. Behind those creaking doors you\u2019ll find storytellers and scholars, students and the occasional lost tourist who meant to climb Arthur\u2019s Seat. Here, Peter Irvine picks the pubs that prove Auld Reekie still does character \u2014 and characters \u2014 better than most.<\/p>\n
1. The Guildford Arms<\/p>\n
The Guildford Arms, where locals and tourists happily mix<\/p>\n
Same block as Caf\u00e9 Royal, in the same family since 1896. A lofty, ornate Victorian hostelry including a dazzling rococo plaster ceiling. Loadsa good ales, typically six Scottish, including Cromarty, Orkney and Loch Lomond Brewery, plus three guests (and 16 wines by the glass). There are some you won\u2019t find anywhere else in the city. Pub grub available on the \u201cgallery\u201d floor as well as the bar. Tourists and locals mingle. 2. Caf\u00e9 Royal Caf\u00e9 Royal oozes Victorian\/baroque elegance<\/p>\n Behind the Apple shop at the east end of Princes Street, one of Edinburgh\u2019s longest-celebrated pubs. Unrelated to the London version, though there is a similar Victorian\/baroque elegance. Through the partition is the Oyster Bar. Central counter and often standing room only. 3. The Royal Oak The Royal Oak is a pocket-sized Edinburgh gem<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Tiny upstairs and not much bigger down. During the day pensioners sip their pints, downstairs \u201clounge\u201d the Wee Folk Club (Sun evenings). Mainly known as a folk-music stronghold (live music every night for 50 years), tourists are amazed (and welcome). They definitely don\u2019t make \u2019em like this any more. Gold-carat pubness 4. The Holyrood 9A<\/p>\n Round the corner at the bottom of St Mary\u2019s Street towards the parliament building, a surprisingly bustling beer and burger den, with impressive selections of both. Food is prepared in the tiniest kitchen somewhere downstairs and served in the packed backroom or bar itself. Huge range of draught beers but also wines by the glass. An all-round good pub. 5. The Jolly Judge The Jolly Judge is an award-winning, indie haven for top-notch cask ales<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Near the castle, the tourists go past with no idea that one of the best drinking pubs in the capital is a few metres away on Lawnmarket. Camra\u2019s best Edinburgh pub in 2023 and 2024 it has carefully selected cask ales, beers and ciders (also scooping multiple awards). Indy-owned and 500 miles from Wetherspoons. 6. The Bow Bar The Bow Bar is an award-winning Victoria Street staple<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Halfway down Victoria Street, they know how to treat drink \u2014 and drinkers of drink \u2014 in this excellent, award-winning wee bar. Traditional selection of six keg ales, eight casks, many bottles and top for whiskies (over 430 malts) \u2014 no cocktails! One of the few places in the Grassmarket area an over 30-year-old might not feel out of place. Pie \u2019n\u2019 pint at lunch. \u2022 19 of the best UK Christmas light trails for 2025<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n 7. Mathers Bar Mathers Bar is an unpolished West End classic that refuses to modernise<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Worth visiting just to look at the ornate fixtures and fittings \u2014 frieze and bar especially. Unreconstructed in every sense since 1903. Men quietly drinking (even some women these days). Pies all day. More than 100 malts. Alongside many smart bars in the West End, a stand-up, stand-alone place for old-fashioned pubbery, slack coiffeur and idle banter. No website, naturally. 8. Sandy Bell\u2019s Scotch eggs, pies and the fiddle set the tone in this storied snug<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Near the university and Greyfriars Kirk; it seems like it\u2019s been there as long. Renowned as a folky\/traditional music haven (live seven nights a week), it reeks (though the smoke has gone) of atmos (it should be given a dispensation). Scotch eggs, pies and the fiddle. 9. Blue Blazer <\/p>\n No frills, no pretensions, just wooden fixtures and fittings and all sorts in this fine howff that carries a huge range of real ales. Regularly voted pub of the year. Extraordinary rum and gin list and then there\u2019s the malts. Much more soul than its competitors nearby. Fun darts and lucky dip games offering discounts on food and drink. 10. Oxford Bar The Oxford Bar is a no-nonsense institution with a few real ales and crisps or nuts if you\u2019re hungry<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Downhill from George Street. No time machine needed \u2014 just step in the door and find one of Edinburgh\u2019s most celebrated non-reconstructed bars. Inspector Rebus wuz here. Be prepared to be scrutinised when you come in. Some real ales but they\u2019re beside the point. No accoutrements \u2014 food menu is crisps or nuts. \u2022 Ian Rankin: My parents wanted me to be an accountant<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n 11. Kay\u2019s Bar This characterful bolthole on Jamaica Street is 150 years old<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Tucked away in a corner of the New Town, a true original \u2014 oak casks, Kay\u2019s Bar jugs, a real fire. They say \u201c150 years of excellence\u201d (it was originally a spirit merchants until about 50 years back), and care for the beer and do a bit of grub at lunchtime (anything that goes with HP Sauce, like mince and tatties). Four screens but rugby rules \u2014 though they show the footie if it doesn\u2019t clash. 12. Star Bar This memorabilia\u2011lined den combines music and banter with a garden and serious table football<\/p>\n Tucked away in a New Town alley, this ineffably cool, eclectic bar has been a music\/bevvy and banter hangout (put together by Stevie, the manager, his pic is on the wall among masses of memorabilia) for more than 20 years now with a new lease of Gen Z life under Bella (the vibe) and Charles (the biz). Full of friendly all-sorts. Serious table footie brigade, surprising garden, supposedly cursed skull in the basement. 13. The Magnum<\/p>\n Chris Graham\u2019s relaxed and reliable gastropub on the corner of Dublin Street is the civilised East Village watering hole with eats, it\u2019s in my \u2019hood; bar and raised dining area. Small plates and \u00e0 la carte menu hit all the right notes, from haggis (bonbons) to venison and gnocchi. Piotr Dzierlega is the accomplished head chef. Some outside tables squeezed into the New Town corner. 14. Cumberland Bar This leafy\u2011back\u2011court local draws suits, students and seasoned sippers<\/p>\n After work this New Town bar attracts its share of suits, but locals (and droves of posh students) claim it too. Long a Camra redoubt, but now, as well as eight real-ale taps, there\u2019s an impressive selection of lagers and ciders on tap and bottles aplenty. Nicely appointed, decent pub food (including the Sunday roast) and an unexpected beer garden. 15. Hector\u2019s This distinctive Stockbridge destination is part of the neighbourhood furniture<\/p>\n On the corner of Stockbridge\u2019s main street and Raeburn Place. A Mitchells & Butlers pub but long a distinctive Stockbridge destination for craft beers, bottled beers, all-day pub grub and Sunday lunch. 16. St Bernard\u2019s Bar<\/p>\n This individually run pub is a celebration of music \u2014 the vinyl version. The owner Hugo\u2019s collection (more than 1,000), continuously added to by donation, is the soundtrack (both up and downstairs) as selected by the bar staff. Two comfy, cosy rooms and a library upstairs. Fresh flowers on the table. Cask ales, IPA and cocktails. It is unique. 17. The Scran & Scallie The Stockbridge gastropub from Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack offers seasonal Scottish plates in a convivial setting<\/p>\n MARC MILLAR<\/p>\n A joint venture between the top chefs Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack. This is a Stockbridge gastropub with top cooking in a convivial and casual ambience \u2014 as the name suggests. Scottish, seasonal and local throughout the menu (many couthy Scots references: \u201cYer starters\u201d). It\u2019s not cheap, mind. Daytime is child-friendly. 18. The Orchard The Orchard serves classic pub food made with real care<\/p>\n Chris Douglas\u2019s airy pub near the botanic gardens, over the Water of Leith from Canonmills corner. Short distance down from busy Broughton Street and all its restaurants, this is worth the detour. Everything a good food pub should be, with a classic menu (especially steak pie and fish\u2019n\u2019chips), a conscientious chef in Pavel Herko and attentive staff. Leith\/Portobello19. Leith Depot Leith Depot is always buzzing with real community spirit<\/p>\n An important independent music community bar on a block near the foot of Leith Walk that was saved from a controversial redevelopment. A people place, with Leith-brewed beers and next door its own music venue with grassroots bands from here and abroad, jam sessions and good craic. 20. Port o\u2019 Leith <\/p>\n Legendary Leith bar on the busy road to what used to be the docks. Perhaps not what it was when Mary Moriarty was madame, but some aura remains. Always good music. It\u2019s still a port in the storm for a\u2019 sorts \u2014 with famously good pies and quiz nights on Thursdays. 21. Roseleaf Roseleaf offers homemade dishes, afternoon tea and family\u2011friendly warmth<\/p>\n On the corner of Quayside between the Shore and the busy Commercial Street. Jonny and Lyn\u2019s Roseleaf sees itself as a \u201ccosy wee hidden treasure\u201d and they\u2019re not wrong (though that may have changed having featured in Netflix\u2019s US hit Somebody Feed Phil). Food is the thing here with everything homemade, including an afternoon tea (best pre-order). Small it is and perfectly formed. Kid-friendly. 22. The King\u2019s Wark On the quayside, this snug classic pairs old\u2011town looks with modern plates<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Woody, candlelit, stone-walled and comfortable \u2014 a gastropub on a corner and on the quay. Bar and bistro dining room. Pub-food classics, the rooms are traditional and dark rather than pale, light and modern. Scottish slant on the big menu from a small kitchen, with excellent fish, including its beloved beer-batter haddock and chips. Mellis cheeses. Many gins. 23. Teuchters Landing This waterside Leith pub is a former ferry waiting room, offering mugs of stovies and more than 260 whiskies.<\/p>\n Reliably ambient Leith pub eaterie in a former ferry waiting room, with waterside tables spread over adjacent pontoons (they can take a couple of hundred people out there). Mugs of prawns and stovies in half or full-pint portions and many \u201cboards\u201d. Great wine list \u2014 20 by the glass \u2014 plus more than 260 whiskies. 24. The Shore The Shore is a cosy, fire-warmed Leith favourite with quayside views<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n A long time on this shore but here is the reassuringly reliable repast of less-expensive Leith foodland. Run by people from Fishers next door, with a similar friendly ambience but more pubby, less fishy. Real fire and large windows looking out to the quayside, strewn with bods on summer nights. Mod-Brit menu in the cosy-in-winter woody bar, live music every Saturday, the restaurant is quieter. 25. Portobello Tap <\/p>\n Big busy, modern pub for real people (same goes for its sister pub, the Old Eastway Tap on Easter Road). Live music, 18 draught lines, two cask ales and eight regularly changing craft beers on tap (including from its own brewery in Eskbank, though this currently up for sale). Great eclectic pub with street food, outside terrace and beer garden with Porty Shack burger bar. 26. The Espy With sand and sea views, this coastal crowd\u2011pleaser is Porty to the core<\/p>\n The original place for pub grub on the promenade of Portobello beach, given a recent makeover, with a new look celebrating its seaside heritage, plus new menus, guest ales and regular events, including quiz nights, themed cocktail evenings and seasonal specials. Views of the sea and beach. Usually full (the pub and these days the prom). South 27. Cloisters Cloisters is a laid-back Tollcross sanctuary for drinkers and anyone looking for a good burger<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n A drinker\u2019s paradise in the old All Saints Parsonage in Tollcross, from the same folk who own the Bow Bar, above. Plenty of taps, dozens of whiskies and many wines by the glass in this simple and unfussy bar with wooden floors and a laid-back approach. Good, pragmatic pub grub \u2014 many burgers. Ten kegs, five rotate. No music \u2014 this is a pub for drink and talk. 28. Bennets Bar Bennets Bar is a theatrical Victorian classic by the King\u2019s Theatre, rich in stained glass and whisky<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n Next to the King\u2019s Theatre, an Edinburgh standby since 1839. Same era as Caf\u00e9 Royal and similar ambience, stained glass, mirrors and tiles. Kitchen closed \u2014 shame. Used to do good pub lunches, but plans afoot to reopen. Cask ales, more than 150 whiskies, new cocktails each week. 29. Summerhall Summerhall\u2019s bar sits in the courtyard of the former Royal (Dick) Vet College, drawing creatives for drinks<\/p>\n CAT THOMSON<\/p>\n Close to the Meadows, a bar in the corner of the central courtyard of the extraordinary independent art and cultural hub. Formerly the Royal (Dick) Veterinary College, the bar draws creative types, a place where anything feels possible. Indoors and tables out. 30. The Fountain <\/p>\n At last, a place to eat and hang out in Fountainbridge. Mix\u2019n\u2019match vibe. Daily menu and \u00e0 la carte. Homemade grub, some tables on the street. Nice people come here. Sunday lunch. And great with kids (even till 10pm). Pub quiz on Sunday. \u2022 Malala Yousafzai: \u2018My golfing journey began on Islay\u2019<\/b><\/a><\/p>\n 31. The Diggers The Diggers has award-winning pies, 22 taps and more than 500 whiskies<\/p>\n Officially the Athletic Arms, but everyone\u2019s called it the Diggers since the time gravediggers would stop in for a pint en route between two neighbouring graveyards. This is the Jambo (Hearts FC) pub par excellence, stowed with the Tynecastle faithful before\/after games. A great pint of locally brewed The Diggers 80\/- and six guest ales. Award-winning pies, more than 500 whiskies, 22 taps. A great snug. 32. Roseburn Bar <\/p>\n On the main Glasgow road heading out west from Haymarket and one of the nearest pubs to Murrayfield Stadium. Wood and grandeur and red leather; bonnie wee snug with leather booths. A fine pint and wall-to-wall rugby, of course. Heaving and heaven before internationals. 33. Montpeliers Montpeliers anchors Bruntsfield with all\u2011day dining, Sunday roasts, DJs and prime people\u2011watching tables<\/p>\n They call it Montpeliers of Bruntsfield and it is almost an institution south of the Meadows. Buzzy, noisy (same owners and similar vibe as Rabble on Frederick Street). From breakfast menu to late supper, they\u2019ve thought of everything. All the contemporary faves. Sunday roasts. Good people-watching from outside tables, DJ at weekends. 34. Canny Man\u2019s Four miles south of the centre, this family fiefdom turns Sunday lunch into an art form<\/p>\n An idiosyncratic, historic Morningside hostelry in a labyrinth of snug, atmospheric rooms, four miles from the city centre. Since 1871 a true, original gastropub. Carries a myriad of malts (250 plus) and a serious wine list. There is a smorrebrod menu (more than 50 variants of the open sandwiches), an \u00e0 la carte, starters, seafood and desserts with Luca\u2019s ice cream. A top Sunday lunch. Clubby and civilised, this much-loved family fiefdom is one of the city\u2019s most convivial pubs. 35. The Sheep Heid Inn The Sheep Heid Inn is said to be Scotland\u2019s oldest surviving pub<\/p>\n ALAMY<\/p>\n A Duddingston inn dating from the 18th century, less than four miles from the city centre, behind Arthur\u2019s Seat and reached most easily through Holyrood Park. They say it\u2019s Scotland\u2019s oldest surviving pub. Village and nearby wildfowl loch should be strolled around if you have time. Food in atmospheric rooms and in a suntrap inner courtyard (also comfy dining upstairs). Authenticity and history is why we come. Food served all day (book weekends). It\u2019s got a bowling alley for parties. Taken from Scotland the Best by Peter Irvine (HarperCollins, \u00a317.99). Or buy from timesbookshop.co.uk<\/a>. Discount for Times+ members<\/p>\n
Details <\/b>1 West Register Street, guildfordarms.com<\/a><\/p>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/50725fb2-2d14-42d7-b1cd-e360f8f7e2f2.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>19 West Register Street, caferoyaledinburgh.com<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/270be72f-79e3-480f-8774-27150f4befd4.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1 Infirmary Street, royal-oak-folk.com<\/a><\/p>\n
Details <\/b>9a Holyrood Road, theholyrood.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/1b77e3a2-df21-4467-b263-0b17a41c2408.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>7, James Court, jollyjudge.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/ea2bbe9d-bcd3-441f-9527-72acd4ed4adf.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>80 West Bow, thebowbar.co.uk <\/a><\/p>\n![\"Entrance](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/802c95fd-92bf-4217-bb6d-968dd2136c60.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1 Queensferry Street<\/p>\n![\"Sign](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/33b4c4b1-f6ba-4687-a6cb-5af43d66da90.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>25 Forrest Road, sandybells.com<\/a><\/p>\n
Details <\/b>2 Spittal Street, facebook.com\/blueblazeredin<\/a><\/p>\n![\"Sign](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/40b96be2-6a39-439c-8c7b-ce91b54ec0d7.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>8 Young Street <\/p>\n![\"Kays](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/da2ce370-f8f3-4a07-844e-6cccf4f5eb64.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>39 Jamaica Street, kaysbar.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/5c4b6316-3433-4184-8afd-80c0a82e16bf.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1 Northumberland Place, instagram.com\/starbar_edin<\/a> <\/p>\n
Details <\/b>1 Albany Street, themagnumrestaurant.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"Outdoor](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/6a993808-649b-4714-ae54-05623c4c547b.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1-3 Cumberland Street, cumberlandbar.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"Several](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/114fc9a7-74b2-4512-ad42-91cb001acd59.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>47-49 Deanhaugh Street, hectorsstockbridge.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n
Details <\/b>10 Raeburn Place, instagram.com\/stbernardsbar<\/a><\/p>\n![\"A](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/793052c2-cc8c-451b-8040-890af0343878.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1 Comely Bank Road, scranandscallie.com<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"Interior](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/bde3bc09-d281-4a28-a230-90b2cfe342fe.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1-2 Howard Place, theorchardbar.co.uk <\/a><\/p>\n![\"Leith](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/73ffd071-c47c-4914-abe0-fb271dbd4522.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>138-142 Leith Walk, leithdepot.com<\/a> <\/p>\n
Details<\/b> 58 Constitution Street, facebook.com\/theportoleithbar<\/a><\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/aa5e17c5-f898-4416-b68d-a414bb569133.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>23\/24 Sandport Place, roseleaf.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/d8803e29-1de4-47fd-af4b-0aec38faa901.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>36 Shore, thekingswarkpub.com<\/a><\/p>\n![\"Teuchters](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/bb224fa3-94e6-4dce-8568-6991e68b4e10.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1c Dock Place, teuchtersbar.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/71eb77ed-c287-4f9b-aac5-799a5695dd27.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>3 Shore, fishersrestaurants.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n
Details <\/b>87 Portobello High Street, portobellotap.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/6aa3d391-427f-40fa-b799-a17476a12f8b.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>62-64 Bath Street, facebook.com\/people\/the-espy<\/a><\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/01c854f6-d87e-45ff-87aa-0b45f25ab2e8.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>26 Brougham Street, cloistersbar.com<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"Green](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/1206193a-75f1-4d3c-8695-d8304b662bad.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>8 Leven Street, bennetsbar.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n![\"People](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/4e822efa-9320-462d-839c-704e6127ecfd.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1 Summerhall, summerhall.co.uk <\/a><\/p>\n
Details <\/b>131 Dundee Street, fountainbar.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"Interior](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/8c720e84-584b-4048-a27b-fefe3470e665.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>1-3 Angle Park Terrace, athleticarms.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n
Details <\/b>1 Roseburn Terrace, roseburnbar.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"Burger](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/59f8d8ef-05d1-448e-8aff-1a014df67c05.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>159-161 Bruntsfield Place, montpeliersedinburgh.co.uk<\/a><\/p>\n![\"Interior](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/07d2b67d-dd2f-4cf6-ad55-c6c1c8ec43a2.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>237 Morningside Road, cannymans.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/uk\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/\/f2ac1d32-492f-4605-8663-f5ceeca3d421.jpg\")
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Details <\/b>43-45 The Causeway, thesheepheidedinburgh.co.uk<\/a> <\/p>\n