The menu of snacks and small and large plates is a thrill of fabulous ingredients: scallops, asparagus, cod, trout, pork, skate, chicken, beef. As if the supplier sent a list and chef said, \u201cYes, I\u2019ll take all of that.\u201d Fellow food critic Tom and I attempted to ape this approach with our order. We began with goug\u00e9res and ended with cabbage and, in each dish, the individual main ingredients were cooked to perfection.<\/p>\n
No veg was given a second longer than necessary in the pot or on the grill; the meat was rested as tenderly as you might have led the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother across a zebra crossing.<\/p>\n