biltmore night

An Aztec palace in the heart of Phoenix.

Arizona Biltmore

“Desert oasis” is a great go-to cliche for travel writers, but rarely is it as fitting a phrase than when referring to the crown jewel of the Sonoran Desert, the Arizona Biltmore. The venerable luxury hotel is nearly a century old but doesn’t look a day over 39–perhaps la grande dame’s timeless, Frank Lloyd Wright-style architecture should take a bow for that–not to mention a recent $150 million renovation that preserved the bones and polished the stones, as it were.

A magnet for marquee names, from Tinseltown stars to every U.S. President

Catalina Pool, glorious even in b&w.

Arizona Biltmore

Ensconced in the sun-drenched heart of Phoenix beneath the austere gaze of Camelback Mountain, the Arizona Biltmore is not merely a resort–it is a monument to American luxury. For nearly a century, it has hosted U.S. presidents (from Herbert Hoover to Barack Obama), Hollywood icons and international travelers, all drawn to its singular blend of architectural grandeur, desert serenity, and world-class hospitality. Namedropping, anyone? Marilyn Monroe said its Catalina Pool was her favorite place to sunbathe, and her rat pack confreres Frank, Sammy and Joey Bishop were never far away, bless their lascivious souls.

A legacy carved in stone and light

Moon over the Biltmore’s stately entrance.

Arizona Biltmore

Originally opened in 1929 with design input from Frank Lloyd Wright himself, the Biltmore’s legacy is as enduring as its iconic concrete blocks—each hand-cast with Wrightian patterns, catching the desert light like sculpture. The grand lobby retains the drama of its past: soaring ceilings, handwoven textiles, and light playing off warm stone surfaces. But this is no museum piece. From its sun-drenched courtyards to its sleek, reimagined interiors, the Biltmore has transformed from legend to luxury haven—without sacrificing its soul or serene elegance.

P.S., the hotel’s website likes to call the following a “fun fact”: The Arizona Biltmore has over 250,000 blocks, 33,000 pounds of copper in the roof and the second-largest gold leaf ceiling in the world (only behind the Taj Mahal). For the record, the Aztec Room & Patio can accommodate some 200 visitors, and yes, that 19-foot ceiling is genuine 18-karat–nary a pre-Depression sawbuck was spared when constructing this masterpiece.

Resting one’s weary head and hiding from the sun

The Biltmore’s Paradise Pool

Arizona Biltmore

For the discerning traveler, discretion and comfort are paramount. The Biltmore’s Cottage Suites and Villa Rooms deliver both in abundance. These low-slung hideaways are tucked amid lush gardens, offering private patios, fire pits, and tranquil fountains—ideal for escaping the thrum and babble at the adjacent pools, and perfect for a quiet alfresco dinner under the canopy of stars. By the way, the Saguaro Pool–adjacent to our capacious villa–was lively without being noisome, and I was pleasantly surprised to see how youthful the hotel’s guests were. The reason? For such a high-end destination, the prices can be downright reasonable, especially in the summer months of course. That and a savvy marketing department, which offers some tasty deals, including a “third night free” package. Yes, please.

Upgrade to the Citrus Club for all-day chillaxin’

The Citrus Club lounge, an oasis within an oasis.

Arizona Biltmore

And here’s a little insider information that won’t land you in front of a nosy Congressional committee: guests booking elite accommodations also enjoy access to the Citrus Club–an exclusive lounge offering complimentary champagne breakfasts, evening mixology, and curated culinary pairings throughout the day. In addition to its luxury and quietude, those who opt for this perk also enjoy free pressing and shoeshine services, a dedicated concierge and a 10% discount at the Tierra Luna Spa, which is a study in serenity itself. All that and a quite playable acoustic guitar, as well as a cool collection of vinyl and a record player to spin them on. I DJ’d some vintage Sinatra (In the Wee Small Hours of the Evening, if you must know) and nobody objected whatsoever. Thanks, Frank….

Tierra Luna Spa

Arizona Biltmore

In a landscape this elemental, wellness is not just a feature—it’s a philosophy. The aforementioned Tierra Luna Spa, newly unveiled, marries desert botanicals with celestial inspiration. Treatments harness native ingredients—blue corn, mesquite, and desert sage—and each therapy is designed to balance body, mind, and spirit. Prefer privacy? Your massage, sound bath, or herbal body wrap can be delivered to your suite or performed in a private outdoor cabana, cooled by gentle misters and soundtracked by desert birdsong. What’s wrong with that picture, I ask you? And fitness freaks will find more than just a state-of-the-art gym—think sunrise yoga on the lawn, guided desert hikes, or tailored personal training programs. Add to that a dizzying descent on a spiral water slide for the young or young at heart at the family pool.

Dining options abound and the food is actually quite good

The Wright Bar

Arizona Biltmore

At the Biltmore, cuisine is an extension of the landscape: bold, earthy, and expressive. The resort’s signature restaurant, Renata’s Hearth, offers a Latin fire-and-flame experience that delights all senses. Smoky mezcal cocktails swirl beside slow-roasted meats, heirloom corn tamales, and mole crafted with 25 ingredients. For more casual luxury, The Spire Bar delivers handcrafted drinks and small plates beside a towering architectural beacon—ideal at golden hour when Camelback turns crimson. And drinks at the Wright Bar adjacent to the front desk are highly recommended for the glory of the architecture alone. And the green chile mac & cheese at McArthur’s is a must–that or the brisket sandwich.

The Biltmore concierge team specializes in tailor-made excursions for travelers who value access and authenticity. Choose from a private helicopter to Sedona’s red rocks, a hot-air balloon ride over the Superstition Mountains with Dom Pérignon in hand, or a Grand Canyon day trip via luxury SUV and private guide. Art aficionados can book VIP gallery tours in Scottsdale or behind-the-scenes access to the Heard Museum. Golf lovers like me are treated to two championship courses and custom club fittings worthy of a Tour pro.

An eagle’s eye view of the Biltmore’s 39 acres, two golf courses, et al.

Arizona Biltmore

The Arizona Biltmore is not resting on its legendary laurels. With its recent transformation, the resort now offers the perfect marriage of old-world glamour and contemporary indulgence. It is as suited to romantic escapes and restorative retreats as it is to milestone celebrations or discreet executive getaways. This is not just a stay—it is a story. One woven from desert sunsets, timeless design, and the kind of service that makes the extraordinary feel effortless. As Arnold the Terminator was fond of grunting: “I’ll be back.”

> If the desert calls, let it call you to Camelback. Let it call you to the Biltmore.