Fonda Del Barrio lit up at night.
The term “Fonda” refers to a small, family-run restaurant that serves traditional, home-style meals. A fonda should be cozy, unpretentious, a place that beckons you to come more often than not; it should feel like home. Sounds great, right? Lucky for us, Fonda Del Barrio has landed just over the bridge in Barrio Logan (2234 Logan Avenue), right across the street from another local favorite, Ciccia Osteria. I have been a fan of Gerry Torres and his family’s restaurants for years now. He first captured my attention when he hit the scene with City Tacos. The Crunch Time Shrimp Taco is still one of the best tacos in San Diego. I then met his son, Hector, while writing an article about another one of their fun restaurants, Quiero, in Seaport Village. When I heard they had acquired the old Barrio Dogg space, I knew it would be something special.
While I missed Fonda Del Barrio’s soft opening, I didn’t waste any time making a reservation during their first week of operation. I wanted to be surprised, but I couldn’t help going to their website to see what I was in store for. I found the following statement on their website.
“Fonda Del Barrio showcases the cuisine of mainland Mexico, incorporating ancestral pre-Hispanic flavors and European influences, such as Oaxacan mole sauces, Mayan achiote rubs, and handmade masa. The menu features dishes from each of Mexico’s seven primary culinary regions: North Mexico, North Pacific Coast, Baja, Central Mexico, South Pacific Coast, Gulf Coast, and South Mexico (Yucatán Peninsula).”
”Ancestral pre-Hispanic flavors” certainly got my attention. Mexico has a rich culinary history, influenced by Spanish, German, and Lebanese cultures. It is not often that you see ancestral offerings, the real foundation of Mexican cuisine.
French doors in the front of the restaurant allow the dinning room to spill out onto the patio.
My date and I started the evening with some fun cocktails; we both enjoyed Watermelon Mint Margaritas, which were refreshingly cool on what had been an unusually hot August day. Two sips in, they opened the large French doors at the front of the restaurant, allowing the dining room to spill out onto the patio and a hint of a Summer breeze to sneak in. As we finished our drinks, our shared bites started to arrive at our table.
Salpicon de Jaiba.
We left our food selections up to Alex, our server, and I am glad we did. Alex spoke passionately about the menu, and everything he suggested felt like the right choice. We had the Salpicon de Jaiba, Gulf crab meat, and flounder fish ceviche tostadas with capers, garlic, onion, and bell peppers. These bites were generous and bursting with flavor; the crab really stood out. Next, we had the Mango Habanero Aguachile, which was eye-poppingly beautiful. The shrimp crudo, marinated with mango and citrus, had hints of ginger and habanero, which played well with the salty chips. Both dishes took me back to the Baja of my youth, carefree days on the beach enjoying treats from the sea.
Mango Habanero Agua Chile.
I am a sucker for beans in any form, so I asked Alex which bean dish to order. He smiled and said, ‘You have to go with the Frijoles Fritos con Veneno.’ These legumes came in the form of a traditional Nuevo León-style dish, featuring “poisoned” refried black beans infused with pressed pork (Chicharrón prensado) and topped with a sprinkle of cotija cheese. I gobbled these up as best I could before our entrees arrived. There was a single fried chicharron for garnish but I used it as a spoon to shovel beans in my mouth. By the time my date asked what I was eating it was gone. What I could not finish, I made sure to take home; they were that good.
Frijoles Fritos con Veneno
Did someone say more cocktails? Oh, I did! The Oaxaca Old Fashioned, made with bourbon, mezcal, and orange agave, as well as the Cucumber Jalapeno Margarita, featuring tequila blanco, lime, and cucumber mix, were just what the doctor ordered. The curtain came up, and the star of the show hit the table first: Chile en Nogada, a historic representation of one of Mexico’s most acclaimed dishes. A fire-roasted poblano pepper filled with ground beef, raisins, walnuts, and a variety of herbs and spices, finished in a warm walnut cream sauce, accented with pomegranate seeds. The colors of the Mexican flag were in full effect. We had to try the Guava Mole, which the menu states has 27 ingredients; it didn’t disappoint. I felt like we had stepped into a time machine and traveled back 4000 years to dine with the Mayans.
Chile en Nogada.
We definitely didn’t have room for dessert, but we ordered the Flan de Elote anyway. This flan was a traditional Mexican custard infused with corn and finished with blackened caramel. My eyes grew wide when we saw Gerry arrive with one of the other desserts on the menu, the Mole de Postre. On the menu, it reads “Mole de Postre?” The question mark is a playful nod to the fact that mole is not your typical dessert. Panela cheese topped with sweet potato mousse over a semi-sweet and spicy chocolate mole poblano, finished with berries and toasted sesame seeds. We both agreed that it was the most unfamiliar, complex dessert we had ever thoroughly enjoyed. “Question mark” indeed, you have to try it.
Flan de Elote.
Enough about our meal, I hope you head over to Barrio Logan and have a cultural experience of your own. Fonda Del Barrio is open six days a week, Tuesday through Sunday. Gerry and his crew are offering live entertainment Thursday through Sunday on the bar/lounge side of the restaurant. You can find Fonda Del Barrio at 2234 Logan Avenue, across from Ciccia Osteria. We hope to see you there, wear your food pants. Viva Mexico!