One of Philadelphia’s favorite sculptors, from one of its most renowned family’s of artists, now has a museum of his own.
Calder Gardens celebrates the work of Alexander Calder and opened on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway last week.
It’s a museum of both motion and stability. Calder invented seemingly weightless mobiles that hang from the ceiling and slowly spin mingling with his huge, “industrial” strength sculptures weighing tons and held together with massive nuts and bolts.
There is a ton of red, black and white at Philadelphia’s newest museum, Calder Gardens. (BILL RETTEW/MEDIANEWS GROUP)
Together, at first glance, the exhibits jar the senses, but then they soothe the soul. You must watch–patiently over time–to see the mobiles move ever-so-slightly. Some of the still sculptures are so immense that you are tempted to walk beneath and through them and explore further–but you wouldn’t dare–because of course, this is a glorious museum.
The Barnes Foundation, operating partner and Parkway neighbor, doesn’t believe much in labeling or defining its masterpieces on the wall, and here they don’t either.
There are no labels at all. No clutter. No one stooping over and casting a shadow on the art while reading a description. You concentrate fully on what you are seeing and lose yourself in the moment. It’s a deeper, more immersive experience.
The Benjamin Franklin Parkway is the site of the new Calder Gardens museum. (BILL RETTEW/MEDIANEWS GROUP)
Most of the Calder works are displayed below ground. You see and feel the art in a cavernous space where some natural light filters in and is assisted by tasteful bulbs. Graceful, flowing shadows fall across the walls, adding to the mystique.
Patrons walk around the art. It’s a 3D experience rather than the two-dimensional one like you get at a conventional museum.
Calder primarily used three colors: black; white and red. And it works.
Immense “industrial strength” sculpture fills the galleries at Philadelphia’s newest museum, Calder Gardens. (BILL RETTEW/MEDIANEWS GROUP)
One hidden mobile in a “secret” rounded room is entirely black, with stark white walls. The contrast tricks the eyes, and thankfully, a padded seat tucked into an alcove cushions the shock.
There are several perfectly placed seats placed throughout the galleries for old guys like me who like to pause and linger while seated.
At first you enter from above where mobiles dangle in front of you. It’s a pleasing and soothing sight after crossing several lanes of asphalt and hearing the honking of city drivers.
Much of the sculpture is underground at Calder Gardens. (BILL RETTEW/MEDIANEWS GROUP)
Still underground, as you exit the main galleries, you emerge into an outdoor space with a dirt floor and two enormous industrial sculptures surrounded by high walls.
A docent told me that several art lovers felt like they were visiting Arizona. I told him that after leaving the basement, it felt to me like I was coming out of winter hibernation during into spring.
The Parkway, with its sycamore-lined boulevard, is called The Museum Mile for good reason. You could spend a week here and not see it all.
Along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway at Calder Gardens. (BILL RETTEW/MEDIANEWS GROUP)
At one end stands the Philadelphia Art Museum and the Rocky Steps. The Barnes Foundation, The Franklin Institute, The Academy of Natural Sciences, and my favorite of Philly’s hundred or so museums is the Rodin Museum, all line the Parkway. There is also the Curtis Institute of Music, with a small museum, and there is plenty to see at the Basilica Sts. Peter and Paul, also on the Parkway.
When I worked as a tour guide on the DUCK boats, I pointed at those museums on the Parkway 500 times per year. I also talked about these three generations of Philadelphia Calders.
Grandfather Alexander Milne Calder designed the 37-foot tall William Penn statute that stands 548-feet above City Hall. I also pointed to Swann Fountain and those bathers on sultry summer days, designed by his son and Alexander’s father, Alexander Stirling Calder. And then I’d mention the massive mobile, “The Ghost,” by Alexander Calder hanging in the Philadelphia Art Museum.
As viewed from above, a mobile hangs from the ceiling at Philadelphia’s newest museum, Calder Gardens. (BILL RETTEW/MEDIANEWS GROUP)
I’d tell the tourists about the Calders, their work along the Parkway and quip, “The Father, The Son and the Holy Ghost.”
Obviously, no visit to Calder Gardens would be complete without a stroll through the 1.8 acres of ever-changing, year-round gardens that hug and envelop the museum.
With 250 varieties of plants, 37,000 perennials, with 195 varieties, more than 50 types of trees and shrubs, and over 15 varieties of climbers, it is a treat to wander through.
You can buy a combo ticket and tour the Barnes at the same time or return the next day. Be aware, to do the Barnes justice, is a huge time commitment.
If you really want to experience sculpture in a fun and diverse way, visit the Rodin Museum on the same day and look for the fingerprints in Rodin’s work. (The museum is pay as you wish.)
All three museums are within easy walking distance and you can park once at theBarnes lot at 2020 Pennsylvania Avenue, at nearby lots or on the street.
I suggest getting timed tickets in advance, since there is already a good buzz about Calder Gardens.
See you there.
Bill Rettew is a semi-regular weekly columnist and staff writer. He adores strolling along the Parkway beneath those glorious sycamore trees. The best way to contact him is at brettew@dailylocal.com