Mitsuru, from Sushi Yasuda’s Mitsuru Tamura and natural wine vet Grant Reynolds of Parcelle, is really two spaces in one. This is Tamura’s first spot since he was handpicked to replace one of the biggest sushi names, offering a chance to see his technique up close at the eight-seat omakase that he runs solo. The other half feels like the sitting room of an eclectic Greenwich Village home, with exposed brick walls, low-slung couches, and shelving as space dividers.
The omakase is traditional with hints of whimsy. You’ll get a warm towel as you sit down, as well as finger wipes (it’s a sign of respect to eat sushi with your fingers). There’s a bit of cheekiness in the decor: mismatched dishware and cute candy-shaped chopstick rests. This visit, the crowd skewed young in the dining room, with plenty of age diversity at the counter.
While I was happy to have a chair with a back and armrests, the chair height at the sushi counter felt more suited to a regular table. My taller dining partner, however, wasn’t bothered.
If you can’t snag one of the omakase seats (or are dining with people who prefer more variety), there’s a five-piece Mitsuru’s choice on the a la carte menu ($44). Cross your fingers for the fatty sea perch or citrus-flecked giant clam.