This story is part of a series on Hispanic entrepreneurs.
If you head to Birrieria Los Chivos de Oro on a Sunday, bring a huge appetite and lots of patience. At the Fort Worth restaurant known for its birria, waits can stretch beyond an hour.
Hispanic entrepreneurs are one of the fastest-growing business groups in North Texas: One in seven businesses in Dallas County are Hispanic-owned.
“Our recipe has been in the family for 63 years. My grandmother was the creator,” said Ricardo Luis, who is originally from Zacatecas, Mexico, and arrived in Fort Worth in 1993.
Birria is no easy dish to master. This spicy meat stew is celebrated for its rich broth and tender meat, simmered slowly in a blend of chiles and spices.
Though this location has only been open for a year and a half, fans of birria and Mexican cuisine flock to it. But building this success was far from easy.
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When Ricardo and his wife arrived in North Texas, money was tight. They scraped together enough money to buy a single goat, prepared birria and sold it door-to-door.
That first goat yielded 50 bowls. Today, they sell up to 300 orders on weekdays, and as many as 1,000 plates on Sundays.
Sopa marinera, soup prepared with a variety of seafood, waits at the pass to be prepared for serving during lunchtime at Birrieria Los Chivos de Oro on Sept. 25, 2025, in Fort Worth.
Angela Piazza / Staff Photographer
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Traditionally made with goat, the dish can carry a strong aroma that deters some diners.
“Ours doesn’t smell like goat”, Ricardo’s son, Ricardo Jr., said.
He explained that the family cooks their birria with agave leaves, the same plant used to make tequila, which helps mellow the scent and enhance the flavor.
Ricardo’s journey has had its share of setbacks.
In 2005, he opened a restaurant with a partner, but the partnership dissolved in 2017. That same year, he opened his own restaurant in a rented space.
Ricardo Luis chops birria, or slow-cooked goat meat, during lunchtime at Birrieria Los Chivos de Oro on Sept. 25, 2025, in Fort Worth.
Angela Piazza / Staff Photographer
Business was thriving until the pandemic struck in 2020. Ricardo did everything in his power to keep the restaurant afloat and avoid layoffs.
“The pandemic scared everyone. I was scared, too. But I trusted in God. I trusted he wouldn’t abandon me or my employees. And that’s how it was,” Ricardo said.
In 2023, Ricardo gave his son a mission: “Study to become a real estate agent because I want you to help me buy our own location.”
Together, father and son opened the restaurant in a 3,600-square-foot space that seats 195 and employs 25, including Ricardo’s wife and five of their children.
Part of the dining room is seen during lunchtime at Birrieria Los Chivos de Oro on Sept. 25, 2025, in Fort Worth.
Angela Piazza / Staff Photographer
“I feel blessed because I can give work to all these people and support my family,” Ricardo said. “My children and my wife are proud of what we’ve achieved because we’ve done things the right way.”
Inside the restaurant, colorful murals depict scenes from Mexican history and pop culture. The menu spans a wide range of traditional Mexican delicacies, all prepared in a professional kitchen outfitted with three stoves, five refrigerators, two fryers and three grills.
“This place is like home for me,” said Norma Jimenez, a longtime employee who has worked alongside the Luis family for 20 years.
Ricardo’s restaurant has felt the impact of this year’s economic and political turbulence.
Sales have dipped 20% to 25% as many migrants limit outings to essentials. Inflation has driven up costs, with meat and produce prices soaring. Ricardo estimates his monthly expenses have risen by more than $12,000.
Restaurant operators Ricardo Luis and Ricardo Luis Jr. stand for a portrait inside of the kitchen of Birrieria Los Chivos de Oro on Sept. 25, 2025, in Fort Worth.
Angela Piazza / Staff Photographer
Labor shortages have added to the challenge, but the family has stepped in to keep operations running smoothly.
“My children, my wife and I are ready to do whatever is needed. We clean, sweep, cook, wash dishes, serve tables, everything,” Ricardo said.
Despite the recent hurdles, Ricardo’s faith remains unshaken.
“This downturn is only temporary,” he said. “We just have to wait and ask God to give us the strength to survive and keep moving forward.”