At Apollonia’s Pizzeria, pizza serves as a canvas for owner Justin De Leon to explore what a Los Angeles slice shop can be. For more than a decade, crowds have battled their way through Apollonia’s slim Koreatown strip mall parking lot to snag a slice of De Leon’s blistered pies. Thin New York-style pies make up the backbone of Apollonia’s menu: The secret is in the crust, sturdy enough to stand up to a one-handed fold with an undercarriage that maintains its crispness the next day. Square pies fall between Detroit-style pizza and bubbly focaccia, its interior of tall gluten bubbles resembling gothic rose windows. At Apollonia’s, the waits can get long, and the limited hours don’t help, but there’s nobody else in Los Angeles quite doing it like De Leon — the constant line is testament to that, even when pies come with a heavier price tag and some degree of inconvenience. Apollonia’s now has a second location in Crenshaw as well.
Ordering online is the best way to secure a full pizza from Apollonia’s, but the selection is more limited, and a 16 percent order fee automatically gets added on. Still, if you want to guarantee a pickup time, the cost may be worth it for the convenience. (Just note that online ordering can sometimes be unavailable, even during regular business hours.) Try checking back later, calling the restaurant directly, or just accept the wait and go in person.
Apollonia’s is best known for its signature pies, but there’s also a build-your-own option if you order over the phone or in person. Choose between a 14- and 20-inch round pizza with toppings like garlic, arugula, and Italian sausage.