Mexican Radio, a new all-day Mexican restaurant, arrives on Tuesday, May 5, with a grand opening at the Hyatt Centric Chicago The Loop. The restaurant from veteran chef and co-owner Dudley Nieto and Roanoke Hospitality Group represents the latest chapter in Nieto’s four-decade-long career opening and shaping restaurants in Chicago and New York.
The opening is timed to Cinco de Mayo, which marks Mexico’s victory at the Battle of Puebla; it holds personal significance for Nieto, a Puebla native. Chef Nieto’s long list of credits includes Chapulín, Adobo Grill, Dos Caminos, Rosa Mexicano, and more recently, Fat Rosie’s. Mexican Radio takes over the former Bandol Brasserie space and is Roanoke Hospitality’s only Mexican restaurant in its portfolio.
“There’s always energy in a Mexican kitchen, and there’s always music blasting from a radio,” Nieto says of Mexican Radio. “In Mexico, we believe that when a cook is happy, the food is good.”
Queso fundido. Mexican Radio
That connection extends to the restaurant’s playlist and decor, much of the latter carried over from the previous restaurant but refreshed with thematic touches, including artwork by Pilsen-based artist Mauricio Zúñiga and a catrina mural by Katherine del Real. Additionally, Mexican Radio plans to bring in a rotating lineup of guest culinary experts to showcase regional dishes from across Mexico.
The dinner menu opens with a shoutout to a few crowd-pleasers, such as octopus-and-shrimp ceviche with morita-tamarind salsa and queso fundido, while leaving room for a few regional highlights. There’s a trio of guacamoles, including an Atlixco-style version with radish and jícama; another with serrano chile, chicharrón, and queso fresco; and a seasonal option.
The lineup continues with salads and another regional specialty — a creamy poblano soup. It then moves into tacos on handmade tortillas with seafood, meat, and vegetable options. The 12-taco tray reinforces the shareable spirit of the plates and is made to go “al centro” on the table.
Molcajetes — volcanic stone bowls filled with asadero cheese, cactus, and a choice of steak, chicken, shrimp, or a combination of the three — are among the heartier dishes. There’s also a short-rib mixiote, a dish not often found in Chicago. Mixiotes are traditionally cooked in thin layers of agave leaves, which gives the meat a distinct flavor while keeping it tender and juicy. Chef Nieto’s version uses banana leaves instead.
The trompo al fuego comes with a little tableside theater: The meat arrives layered on a skewer to resemble a trompo al pastor, and is briefly set aflame to replicate the crackling fire of a traditional trompo, then taken back to be sliced and presented with cilantro, onion, lime, salsa, and fresh tortillas for diners to build their own tacos.
The enchiladas are a point of personal pride for Nieto. The two options, a Veracruzan xico and the Oaxacan coloradito, are made with different chiles and filled with either vegetables or chicken. Nieto learned to make mole by observing his grandmother; he recalls how she selected each chile for her recipe with care. At Mexican Radio, the chef works with a wide range of chiles, including lesser-used varieties like chilhuacle or mije that he hopes to help keep from disappearing from kitchens as demand fades.
Nieto is known for having sourced, catalogued, and documented products known by different names across Mexico before many were widely available in Chicago, helping bring the food to life for local cooks and diners. He believes he was the first to serve an array of insects in Chicago at his aptly named restaurant Chapulín in the ’90s.
Sopa poblana. Mexican Radio
Molcajete. Mexican Radio
“Mexican cuisine is about high-quality ingredients,” Nieto says. “You touch, smell and listen to them. You understand them. It’s also about mastering fire.”
The cocktail menu highlights agave spirits with drinks such as frozen margaritas, mezcal and tequila flights, micheladas, sangria, beer, and a short wine list mostly from California and Spain. Nonalcoholic options include aguas frescas.
The morning offerings span staples including pan dulce, chilaquiles, and café de olla, giving way to lunch service and happy hour with weekend brunch.
For Roanoke CEO Bryan Gerrish, opening an all-day Mexican restaurant was a strategic move aimed at meeting a broad range of customers where they’re at with food that’s equal parts familiar and easy to share. It’s part of a broader trend happening in the neighborhood. “Remote work has changed traffic patterns, and many of these older buildings are being converted into hotels or residences,” he says. The result is a neighborhood no longer defined solely by the 9-to-5 workday, but by a new mix of tourists, residents, and locals. Simultaneously, all-day dining, while typical for hotels, is also trending in the wider Chicago market. “People might be waiting for the train to go home, or they might decide to come to party after work,” says Brad Aloui, Roanoke’s COO.”
Mexican Radio is located at 100 W. Monroe in Chicago; serving breakfast from 6:30 to 11 a.m. daily and lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily; dinner is served 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Sunday; happy hour is available from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday; brunch is available 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekends; Reservations are available via OpenTable; 312-877-5713.