Natural Pearl and Orange YellowDiamond Shell Earrings by Forms
Forms
After four years exhibiting at the TEFAF Maastricht art fair, the Hong Kong high jewelry firm Forms is making its first appearance at TEFAF New York, the smaller sibling of the iconic Netherlands fair. The fair, which opens Friday, is serving as the brand’s entry into the U.S. market.
“We started at TEFAF Maastricht and when we were invited to TEFAF New York, we decided the time was right for us,” said Flora Wong, director of Forms. “It’s actually our first time in the U.S. market, so it’s very exciting.”
Leaf earrings made of green aluminum and emeralds by Forms
Forms
The debut also involves extensive work introducing the brand to new collectors and potential clients. Forms secured a private room near the entrance of the fair, ensuring strong visibility. Designed in the same red, green and gold palette as its larger Maastricht presentation, the space features the company’s jewels displayed in elegant wall vitrines. The preview day Thursday was especially crowded, drawing many visitors unfamiliar with the brand.
Forms has made a significant impression on the international high jewelry world in a relatively short time. Founded in 2010 by Elad Assor and Tzvika Janover, the company combines a strong focus on artistic design with technical innovation. Assor serves as managing director and oversees the sourcing of gems and materials, while Janover, the creative director, leads the design process. Wong joined the company in 2021 from Sotheby’s Hong Kong jewelry department.
The company stands apart from many traditional high jewelers in several ways. Although based in Hong Kong—a city better known as a global trading hub than a center for jewelry artistry—Forms has positioned itself as a creative force in contemporary high jewelry. While Hong Kong is home to acclaimed jewelry artists such as Wallace Chan, Michelle Ong and Narcisa Pheres, it is more widely associated with commerce and the world’s largest gem and jewelry trade fair.
Forms also describes itself as a design-first company, meaning that designs are created before materials are sourced. This differs from the traditional approach of many high jewelers, who often begin with exceptional gemstones because of their rarity and value.
Long diamond and pearl earrings by Forms
Forms
All production takes place in Hong Kong, where a team of about 10 artisans creates fewer than 100 jewels annually based on Janover’s designs. Unlike many high jewelers, Forms openly embraces technology in its creative process.
Materials used in its pieces range from high-quality gemstones to ancient agate, wood and other found materials. The company favors titanium and aluminum for their lightweight strength and their ability to change color through anodization.
A unique necklace by Forms
Forms
The results are highly sculptural creations. Forms’ signature gem-setting technique, which secures each stone on an almost invisible frame, creates the illusion that the gems are floating. One recent series, inspired by chopsticks, demonstrates the technique vividly: diamonds and colored gemstones appear delicately balanced on aluminum chopsticks worn as brooches, while additional stones are seamlessly set into the base.
The company also employs “shakudo,” a traditional Japanese decorative metal alloy composed primarily of copper with a small percentage of gold. When treated in a special chemical solution, the alloy develops a deep purplish-black patina. Forms uses the material to frame gemstones in a style reminiscent of antique collet settings, adding both contrast and depth of color.
Wong said the company’s complex techniques and materials require between 600 and 800 hours to complete each piece.
“Every piece is a prototype. It’s one of a kind,” Wong said. “It’s a very long process. I think that’s what we’re known for—fine-tuning every detail, from the design concept to the workmanship, until it’s perfect.”
The Hong Kong workshop also serves as the company’s showroom, where most jewels are sold privately, along with a second office in Geneva.
“We only do the two major fairs—TEFAF Maastricht and now TEFAF New York,” Wong said. “This is the only time our pieces are available to the public. We have many private collectors who visit our showroom in Hong Kong, and we also organize private presentations for collectors.”
TEFAF New York runs from May 15 through May 19.