Bandit might be unlike most of the restaurants people expect to find in the trendy Fulton Market area of Chicago.
Basically, Bandit excels in serving upscale bar food with a huge side helping of nostalgia—making the restaurant a vibrant spot that wants customers to just have fun.
Let’s talk about the (mostly musical) nostalgia first. It hits you as soon as you enter, thanks to the (non-playing) jukebox that lists hits by Cher, Madonna and many others. The ‘80s and ‘90s themes carry over into … the restrooms, of all places. While the women’s restrooms had photos of Justin Timberlake and Destiny’s Child all over their walls, the men’s rooms featured images of Eminem in one; Tupac and Biggie in another; and Britney Spears in a third. (Note: While I would understand Spears being featured in the men’s room of a gay establishment, I’m not sure what to make of it in a straight one.)
Justin Timberlake-themed ladies’ room. Photo by Andrew Davis
As for the cuisine, it’s practically what you’d expect in such an environment: casual, fun and, fortunately, delicious. To get the most out of what Bandit offers, you might want to consider trying the City Dipper—a collection of the spot’s Diplomat sliders (Angus burgers, crispy shallots, Merkts sharp cheddar, bacon jam, dill pickles and caramelized onion aioli on Parker House rolls,) Crispy Mozz Thicc bites and Nashville tenders. Although my friend and I enjoyed all the items, the Thicc bites stood out the most—but the sliders weren’t far behind.
Some of Bandit’s other offerings include disco waffle fries, the chicken gyro, delightful steak tacos and the recently introduced Prince Street Pizza Pocket Pocket, created in collaboration with Prince Street Pizza.
Bandit’s Prince Street Pizza Pocket. Photo by DineAmic Hospitality.jpg
The $9.99 special puts a Chicago spin on a classic, paired with Bandit’s signature giardiniera dip. For dessert, there are items such as the ever-popular skillet cookie with ice cream; although Bandit’s cookie was more granular than gooey, it was still good.
And on the weekend, the fun is multiplied, thanks to Bandit on Two—the spot’s second-floor space that becomes a “clubstaurant,” pumping music, offering games and dishing out food, of course. In addition, there’s a very cozy hidden corner on this floor with a TV screen that allows people to play old-school video games—but my guest and I both thought that more than gaming has taken place on that seat.
Bandit, essentially, stands out from the quainter and/or more hoity-toity establishments in the West Loop—and if you’re in the mood for casual fun, this is a good thing.
LAUREL
LAUREL, in the Talbott Hotel in Chicago’s Gold Coast, is one of those places you could slip by if you’re not careful, as it’s ensconced in a quiet area near Delaware and Rush streets.
Don’t make that mistake. Otherwise, you might miss out on some cool eats.
I previously reviewed this restaurant in late July of last year (shortly after a “reimagining”)—and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. However, I wondered if LAUREL’s charm would work a second time—and it (mostly) did.
During this more recent visit—a weekend brunch—my friend opted to dine inside, as it was a sweltering summer day. (In the spring or fall, dining outside might be a more welcome option.)
LAUREL “blends New American creativity with Mediterranean flavor,” according to a press release. It lives up to that billing—much to the satisfaction of my friend, who was already salivating over the menu he saw online.
Shakshuka and pita. Photo by Andrew Davis
The shakshuka and scallion labneh with pitas were as delightful as I experienced the first visit, although I largely avoided the zhoug, a spicy cilantro sauce. However, the spicy mayo in the egg-and-pork belly sandwich initially got me—in a good way. The sandwich was pretty enjoyable, although the belly was slightly overcooked, although the side potatoes were perfect. My friend devoured the greens-and-feta omelet, which I had to admit looked delicious.
But you should know that there are other tantalizing options, including mushroom toast, the Classic Talbott Breakfast (two eggs any style, potato parmesan hash, toast, and sausage or bacon), and the beet-and-goat cheese salad.
Regarding drinks, I didn’t want to overdo it with alcohol (although many people have ordered mimosas, I’m sure) so I went with a healthful Mango Surprise smoothie. Don’t sleep on those smoothies—they’re pretty tasty.
So, if you happen to find yourself around the north end of Michigan Avenue, keep LAUREL in mind. It’s only a stone’s throw from that iconic street—and you’re bound to relish your experience there.
Note: SAVOR visits are pre-arranged, unless otherwise indicated.
Note: No reproduction of this column is permitted under any circumstances without the express prior written permission of the columnist.
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