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When I moved from Mexico to L.A. a year ago, people would often ask me what region I was from. When I said Colima, there was usually a short, awkward moment as people tried to place it — and failed.
“It’s a tiny state,” I’d say, “in between Michoacán and Jalisco on the west coast.” Ah. They’d enthusiastically nod. They got it.
Colima may be small, but it punches above its weight. It’s got the largest seaport in Mexico, the port of Manzanillo, and volcanoes, which boast both fire and snow.
One of its cities, Tecomán, is known as the “lime capital of the world” with its own key lime (Colima green diamond). The region also produces Sal de Cuyutlán, a crunchy, coarse hand harvested sea salt.
All that adds up to incredibly fresh seafood and distinctive flavors. As I settled into L.A., I realized I missed it. Could I find the taste of Colima in the city?
Intern Mariana Cardenas, at Tejuinos Colima, happy to drink her tejuino.
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Karen Mariana Cardenas Ceballos
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I finally tracked it down in the guise of two food trucks: one on Alameda Street and one in Boyle Heights..
Tejuinos Colima
I found out about Juan Casillas’ food truck from my mother back in Colima. He’s from Manzanillo like us. He’s had his food truck for 23 years, on Alameda Street, near the exit of the Jordan High School parking lot.
When I tasted his tejuino for the first time a few months ago, I felt I’d been transported to the vibrant streets of Santiago’s market where I usually got it back home.
Casillas preparing tejuino as done in the streets of Colima.
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Karen Mariana Cardenas Ceballos
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Tejuino is a traditional drink made of corn dough (masa), piloncillo (cone-shaped brown sugar), the region’s Sal de Cuyutlán sea salt, and limes. It’s the perfect refreshing summer drink, with just the right mix of sweet and sour, and a thick, nourishing texture.
Colima’s famous sea salt
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Karen Mariana Cardenas Ceballos.
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You can get tejuino in other states, like neighboring Jalisco, but there it’s fermented, so it’s alcoholic. In Colima, it’s not.
In 2002, after Casillas had tried, and failed, to find a Colima tejuino in L.A. — “all the tejuino stands were from Jalisco,” he says — he saw an opening to introduce it to the city. He started his stand with $50, a pot and a cooler full of ice.
Since then, people who hail from all over Mexico and even different U.S. states come to get his tejuino, telling him they can’t find another one like his. “I try tejuino in other places to know with whom I am competing,” Casillas said, with a laugh, affirming that yes, his tejuino is better than all the others.
He says the recent ICE raids have affected his business, because people are afraid to go outside. But he’s noticing that his frequent customers send their kids to get the drinks, and he also offers delivery on Uber Eats.
Location: 8211 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles
Hours: Monday – Friday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.
Mariscos El Colima
As a coastal port, Colima is known for its quality seafood. That’s the focus of Mariscos El Colima, a food truck in Boyle Heights off Olympic Boulevard between Orme Ave and Calumos Street.
A half dozen of blood clams from Mariscos El Colima.
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Karen Mariana Cardenas Ceballos
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Prepared queen clam.
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Karen Mariana Cardenas Ceballos
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LAist
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When I went there for the first time, I was surprised by the breadth of the fresh seafood they offered. 80% of their products are Mexican, which are driven up fresh from Mexico weekly. Even though I’d grown up on the coast, there were some varieties I didn’t know even existed, like axe callus, a scallop, and different types of clams such as chocolate clam, pismo clam and queen clam.
Oyster shots from Mariscos El Colima.
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Karen Mariana Cardenas Ceballos
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LAist
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Siblings Mercedes Diaz and Raul Diaz started the business four years ago. Mercedes had been a waitress for 20 years at a Mexican restaurant in L.A., and Raul had worked as a plumber.
Their mother had been an entrepreneur in Mexico and pushed them to be their own bosses. They figured since they were from the coast, “we knew how to make seafood,” and that since Colima was little known and underrated, they could offer something different.
They’re known for innovating and experimenting with different ingredients, like their oyster shots which include oysters, shrimp and their specially-made sauce.
One of their most popular items is the “levanta muertos” cocktail, considered a cure for a hangover, which contains blood clam, shrimp, octopus, abalone, axe callus and the sauce.
Ernesto de la Cruz, a customer waiting for food at the truck, said he goes there because “it’s not easy to find the freshness, authentic flavor and variety of seafood in L.A.” Meanwhile, Mercedes says, other customers drive in from Bakersfield, Fontana and even San Diego.
That kind of loyalty is what the Diaz siblings are hoping for — interacting and building a relationship with their customers is a priority.
“We want a well known customer, not a one day customer,” Mercedes said.
Location: 2828 E. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles
Hours: 9 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. Wednesday to Monday.