Located at the corner of Wabash and Monroe in the Loop, it’s not exactly obvious what Momento, a new Mexican restaurant, is. One side features a causal taqueria while the other a more formal sit-down cantina.
Co-owner César Fajardo says he and business partner Christopher Roldán haven’t just launched a restaurant at 44 S. Wabash, but they’ve launched a brand that will “reshape how people think about Mexico, its culture, and people.” The restaurant officially opened in May after giving customers a sneak preview over summer 2024 during Lollapalooza weekend.
Momento
“Besides the flavor, we think taquerias are more about the culture of getting a taco, and some of those things haven’t been imported well into the United States,” Fajardo says. Forget taco platters. Momento seeks to emulate Mexico’s taco stands, where customers order items one at a time.
“You’re setting the pace of the rhythm of how much you want to eat,” Fajardo adds.
Momento weaves in its message through cheeky language on the menu and napkins. “If you want to talk to the manager, se habla en Español (also English ’cause we speak both)” is written on the cantina menu: “From the beginning, we felt Momento should be a brand that is loud as in a way we are reclaiming our space,” says Fajardo.
The taqueria side is more casual.
Pescado baja taco
Costra de ribeye
With its main entrance on Wabash, the taqueria offers an abbreviated menu of what’s available in the neighboring cantina. Step up to the orange counter to get a Momento card that will be linked to a credit card. Linger a moment to watch the nixtamalized masa made from varieties of heirloom Mexican corn being pressed by hand before being placed on the tortilla-making machine. The tortillas are also available for purchase in vacuum-sealed bags. “Because 70 percent of our dishes are based on maiz, we put a lot of effort to have good corn,” says Fajardo.
To share, there are elotes, guacamole, and ridged potato chips sprinkled with lime juice and hot sauce, a popular Mexico City street snack. Tostadas come layered with grilled ribeye, spicy tuna, and Sinaloan-style fish with a kicky chile-lime sauce. The fried tortillas are sturdy, so go ahead and pick them up to eat.
Customers are issued cards so they can dispense drinks themselves.
Spicy Tamarindo Margarita
Panque de Elote
The tacos are available in six varieties, including ribeye topped with crispy potato strips, fried whitefish with mango pico de gallo, and birria-style mushrooms. From the trompo, a Mexico City tradition, the shaved beef is paired with vegetables. Full meals in the style of Mexico’s comida corrida come in the form of stews (guisados) like slow-braised beef tongue and cochinita pipil, all served with rice, beans, and tortillas.
A large window features artwork depicting six cartoon-like characters. Like at a museum, a panel next to it offers details of its significance, although here it’s in English and Spanish. “Icons of faith, reimagined for today,” it reads. Peek inside another window and you’ll see a colorful floor-to-ceiling mural of a winged woman. Those in the know will recognize her as the Angel of Independence who sits atop one of Mexico City’s most important monuments. Surrounding her, illustrations depict various Mexican icons.
Inside the small space, orange banquettes and chairs mirror the signature color of Mexico City’s buses and metro stations. On the tables, small computer screens provide access to the menu and ordering process.
Over on the cantina side, an expanded menu also includes shareable molcajetes such as grilled fish and starters like shrimp quesadillas and tamales. Six additional tacos are available that offer creative taco takes (think quesabirria, charred octopus with salsa macha, and roasted sweet potato) on the traditional dish. Desserts include arroz con leche, chocolate “abuelita” cake, and sweet corn cake.
Two chefs from Mexico City oversaw the menus. Alex Preschez is executive chef at the Hotel Sofitel, while pastry chef Fernando Prado is behind Cuina, a bakery, restaurant, and culinary school, also in Mexico City.
In the cantina, tech-driven experiences are combined with modern murals from Mexican artists and more traditional design motifs. At its Monroe entrance, a digital interactive screen displays various Mayan masks. On shelves next to the restrooms, there are black-and-white photos of popular Mexican screen stars from the past. Inside the women’s restroom, a red-lit infinity mirror inspires selfies.
The entrance to the cantina side. Momento
An interactive beverage experience has been incorporated into the design of the 97-seat cantina to encourage guests to get up from their tables and mingle. At one, mezcals and tequilas are dispensed in tasting-size portions. Various draft Mexican beers, including some exclusive to Momento, are available at one end of the 14-seat bar. Both are accessible via a Momento card. Beverages can also be ordered from servers and bartenders.
“In Mexico, a cantina is a place where your table is the very beginning of the experience,” says Fajardo. “Maybe you end at another one because you meet people and you dance, sing, drink, and share stories. We want people to explore the place.”
For its design inspiration, the dining room references Mexico’s many cathedrals. Overhead are 3D arches and spires in pink and purple, a nod to the vibrant colors of Mexico City’s beloved jacaranda tree blossoms.
With all this talk about branding, it’s important to note that Fajardo a content creator and brand developer by trade. He’s pushed buttons when it comes to his nationality when he created a three-minute video in 2018 called “I’m Mexican” that delivers a rapid-fire message on Mexicans’ strength when faced with adversity. The video went viral with 4.5 million views on YouTube.
It’s via that video that Roldán, who owns franchises of French multinational gelato chain Amorino in Mexico City and Chicago, first connected with his fellow Mexico City native. When Roldán found a potential space for a restaurant, he reached out to his now friend and asked how the video would translate into a restaurant. From there, the idea and message for Momento grew.
“This is a showcase for authentic Mexico,” Fajardo says. “We want everything at Momento to be meaningful.”
Momento Taqueria, 44 S. Wabash Avenue, (312) 363-3136, open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Friday, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. Momento Cantina, 36 E. Monroe Street; open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 12 p.m.-8 p.m. Sunday. Reservations available via OpenTable.