Sushi Ouji is the rare omakase that feels special and attainable: a 14-course tasting for $129 per person inside a cozy, below-street-level room at 196 Prince Street in Soho. The restaurant is led by chef Ben Chen and owner Emily Lin, with management by Kevin Wei, who is also the sommelier. Nearly all of the fish is flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market. This is exactly the kind of neighborhood omakase I want more of right now: polished, intimate, and worth the price.

A 12-seat L-shaped counter anchors the small, wood-trimmed room; lighting is a bit bright, and the team is attentive without fuss. It reads like a Soho secret rather than a scene. Solo diners fit right in; so do date nights. It helps that the room is behind a curtain and down a short set of stairs. The trio of women next to me was there for the second time during their weeklong visit from London.

Weekday early seatings are your best bet for a quieter pass through the menu. There’s a 24-hour cancellation fee policy — set a reminder. Ask for counter seats on Chen’s side if you like a little narration with your nigiri.