The Michelin Guide Northeast ceremony in Philadelphia on Tuesday night saw Chicago add a new one-star restaurant, Feld, and a two-star restaurant, Kasama, to its repertoire. The ceremony featured restaurants from Chicago, New York, Washington, D.C., Philadelphia and Boston.
Feld’s first Michelin star might not be a surprise for those who have experienced the 27-course tasting menu at the Ukrainian Village restaurant. In the Michelin guide, Feld is cast as a farm-focused experience worthy of a star.
“Chicago native Chef Jacob Potashnick highlights in-season products, and the same ingredient may be highlighted in different forms, like raw asparagus with a cured lemon emulsion, tempura fried or as a juice accompanying fresh cheese, or in main dishes like poached Maine halibut with a maitake mushroom purée, maitake mushroom and thyme foam and a piece of grilled maitake mushroom,” the guide states.
Feld also received a Michelin Green Star award, which “highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices.” Daisies in Logan Square retained its Green Star for another year.
Kasama, the Filipino bakery and restaurant in Chicago’s East Ukrainian Village neighborhood owned by chefs Tim Flores and Genie Kwon, was bumped up to two stars.
“Flores’ background provides inspiration for this modern interpretation of Filipino cuisine, while Kwon’s pastry training elevates the sweet side of things,” the guide states. “In a simple space, the two cook with striking originality. Homey traditional preparations are reimagined in elegant, inventive ways, as in an ‘adobo’ of mussels and wild mushrooms that balances tangy, sweet and savory.”
Kasama chef and owners Tim Flores and Genie Kwon at their restaurant in Chicago on Feb. 17, 2022. (John J. Kim/Chicago Tribune)
Kasama first joined the guide in the Bib Gourmand list and then achieved one star in 2022, when it became the first Filipino restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star.
On Tuesday night, Flores, who was not at the ceremony, was comically represented by a cutout of his head, while Kwon accepted the accolade.
“You know, we never thought we would open a tasting menu restaurant,” Kwon said. “We wanted to open a neighborhood place. And we opened it in July of 2020 and every decision that we’ve made has been to protect our team and ensure their job security. And looking back, I can’t even believe we’re here.”
Ever, chef Curtis Duffy’s celebrated fine dining restaurant in Fulton Market, was recognized with a Service Award for Amy Cordell, its chief operating officer.
Since opening in 2020, Ever has become an acclaimed dining destination for its imaginative gastronomy. In a statement to the Tribune, the restaurant, which also retained two Michelin stars, nodded to its attention to detail and dedication to storytelling.
“I’m extremely proud of everything we’ve accomplished this year,” Duffy said. “We’ve experienced a lot of change and a lot of growth, and I’m grateful that our commitment to our guests’ experience has stayed consistent through it all.”
Stars are given out by anonymous inspectors to restaurants and are a coveted symbol of success for chefs, though the award is given to the full team. When awarding restaurants with stars, Michelin Guide inspectors take into account five criteria: ingredient quality, harmony of flavors, the mastery of culinary techniques, how the chef’s personality shines through their cuisine and consistency across the entire menu and over time. The inspectors — former restaurant and hospitality professionals — also reassess restaurants to ensure they continue to serve diners the same excellent standard of cooking year after year.
Announced last week, Alinea, the modernist tasting menu restaurant by chef and owner Grant Achatz, was demoted from three stars, the highest rating, to two stars. Michelin awarded the restaurant three stars when the guide first came to Chicago in 2010, a distinction it had retained since then.
Tribune critic Louisa Chu reviewed Alinea this year and gave the restaurant two out of four stars, recognizing the industriousness of the staff, but noting “overly sweet, salty and truffled flavors.” Chu also offered: “Plus, it’s time to let go of The Balloon, one of too many signature courses.”
In a statement on social media, Achatz expressed disappointment at the reduction to two stars.
“For 20 years, Alinea has been devoted to pushing creativity, rigor, and the pursuit of perfection in our craft. That commitment remains as unwavering today as it was on day one, and will continue until the back door of 1723 locks for the last time,” he said.
While the star ranking is most well-known, the guide also provides a number of other awards, including Bib Gourmand, recognizing well-priced, quality food. Chicago’s new Bib Gourmands are Mirra, Nadu and Taqueria Chingón. The additions to the selected restaurants list are Astor Club: Chef’s Table, Creepies, Oliver’s and Tama.
Ever, 1340 W. Fulton St., ever-restaurant.com
Feld, 2018 W. Chicago Ave., feldrestaurant.com
Kasama, 1001 N. Winchester Ave., kasamachicago.com
Chicago restaurants with Michelin stars:
Three stars: Smyth
Two stars: Alinea, Ever, Kasama, Oriole
One star: Atelier, Boka, Cariño, El Ideas, Elske, Esmé, Feld, Galit, Indienne, Mako, Moody Tongue, Next, Schwa, Sepia, Topolobampo
The full Michelin guide for Chicago, including Bib Gourmand and selected restaurants, is available at guide.michelin.com
Alinea by chef Grant Achatz demoted from three Michelin stars in Chicago
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