By Molly Given
Since 2019, locals have flocked to Chef Christopher Kearse’s contemporary French restaurant Forsythia for inventive dinner dishes like stuffed zucchini blossoms, wagyu tartare and deviled eggs with unique toppings. But what most may not realize is that some of the real stand-outs on the venue’s menu come a bit earlier in the day—at brunch.
Offered on Saturdays and Sundays (10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.), the early service at this recently Michelin-recommended spot boasts a variety of small plates, entrées, flavorful cocktails, and sweet finishes.
One popular starter is the beet-pickled deviled eggs dish, made with lobster bottarga, vadouvan and lemon ash. The vanilla-ricotta beignets (made with coffee, caramel and chocolate) are another fan favorite, and if you don’t want them as a starter, they also offer a great dessert option (and enjoy with a selection of Rival Bros. tea and coffee). The current menu also boasts seasonal and seafood-forward starters like sweet potato and pumpkin soup, salmon and avocado tartine, tuna carpaccio “a la lyonnaise”, and a rotating selection of oysters on the half shell.
Large plates currently include bites like shrimp & Anson Mills grits, a citrus-cured salmon benedict, a French omelette (this one is for mushroom lovers), steak and eggs and even a quiche du jour. The stand-outs from the larger section, however, are definitely a selection of savory crepes—one boasting duck with caramelized onions, a sunny egg and black truffle cognac sauce, and the other, a combo of caramelized onions, roasted Japanese eggplant and fontina cheese fondue. For those with a sweet tooth, the Pain Perdu is another fun dish, and it comes as a cardamom brioche mound doused in dark rum chantilly cream, huckleberry marmalade, hazelnut praline and maple syrup.
The restaurant also offers an assortment of sandwiches like a truffle grilled ham and cheese, a chicken club and a burger royale—all with their own unique spin. There’s also a patty melt on the list made with raclette cheese, fried onions and Rye Espelette honey.
The main dishes all set the stage at this locale, but the sides also hold some star power. The stand-out is by far the potato rosti. Foryshtia’s French-inspired take on the classic Swiss potato dish is Kearse’s own updated technique on a hash brown. The exterior is extra crispy, which provides just the right amount of crunch for the extra fluffy inside. The best part? Some dishes come with these bites already (like the steak and eggs), so you don’t have to go too far out of your way to enjoy them.
Drink-wise, cocktail lovers are in luck. Forsythia is known for its craftsmanship in this area of the menu, and that doesn’t change for brunch. Early birds can sip on refreshing mixtures (both spirited and mocktails) like a Ranch Water (Anejo Tequila infused with strawberry, lemon and Perrier) and the Beet Up (gin infused with beets and carrots, ginger liqueur, honey, tarragon and lemon). Or, visitors can opt for some fresh takes on fun brunch classics like the My Name Is Earl (vodka, coffee liqueur and coffee concentrate infused with Earl Grey Tea), and of course, Bloody Marys and mimosas.
Brunch items range in price (from $14 to $32), with the experience overall offering a bevy of creative takes on classic French forward flavors. The space itself is chic, cozy and inviting with a focus on making it as intimate as a café you would find in Europe.
The kitchen is also an open concept, so those who sit down at one of the tables in the back get to hear the sizzle of every steak or chop of every onion. The bar area in the front holds its own vibe, with everything put together to be intentional and cohesive, whether you’re there for a nighttime escape or to enjoy the early morning hours of your weekend. And if you haven’t enjoyed the latter yet, it’s time to do just that.
To make a reservation and learn more about Forsythia (233 Chestnut St.), visit forsythiaphilly.com