Mix old-school vibes, a Parisian bistro menu, nostalgic leanings, a boisterous crowd, and welcoming hospitality — all right in Soho — and you’ve got Soho’s Balthazar. Open 8 a.m. to midnight, the best time to go is for a late dinner, preferably an hour or so before closing.

It’s busy at night — don’t try to do what someone tried to do and attempt to get a table for nine people at 11 p.m. Try to make a reservation if you can, be prepared to wait for a table, or order takeout.

McNally and the team are known for their top-notch hospitality: For example, McNally is known for playing Taylor Swift at night. When I made my reservations, I added a note about how my husband and I were fans of the singer. Lo and behold, when we were seated at our table, I heard “All Too Well (Ten Minute Version)” playing over the speakers, much to our delight.

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld says “Balthazar is his [Keith McNally’s] masterpiece, an evocation of a Paris brasserie that outglows anything within Brie-tossing distance of the Seine.”