The Fourth of July is, for many of us, a welcome excuse for barbecues, beach outings and fireworks — a holiday defined by gathering, but also some pretty ambitious eating and drinking too.
For wine lovers, this year’s celebrations arrive on the heels of another milestone. Last month marked the 50th anniversary of the Judgement of Paris, the now-legendary 1976 blind tasting that pitted California wines against some of the most celebrated French wines. When a panel of French experts awarded top honors to the Americans, it sent shockwaves through the wine world and permanently altered global perception of American wine.
Cherish Varley, Ox Bar & Hearth assistant general manager/bar director, pours a glass of Orango Tango from California on June 20, 2026. (Chris Sweda/Chicago Tribune)
Commemoration of this anniversary comes at an uneasy moment though. American wine has never enjoyed greater global credibility, but the industry faces historic crossroads today, grappling with oversupply, declining consumption and growing uncertainty about its future.
Which is why, for the Fourth of July, it feels especially fitting to celebrate the kind of independent producers redefining the future of American wine.
Whether a poolside quaffer or something robust enough for brisket and ribs, there’s no shortage of excellent American wines to choose from. But beyond the familiar labels that dominate big-box store shelves, it’s worth paying attention to the kind of winegrowers championing a more distinctive version of American wine — one rooted in a sense of origin, better farming and long-term stewardship of their land and communities.
The challenge, of course, is that many of America’s most exciting, thoughtfully made wines aren’t always easy to find. Small producers focused on farming and site expression rarely have the distribution or marketing muscle of larger brands.
At Ox Bar & Hearth in Lincoln Park, where roughly 85% of the restaurant’s wine list is American, beverage director Cherish Varley has made a point of spotlighting America’s smaller, independent producers. Alongside established benchmarks like Napa cabernet or Sonoma sparkling wines, the list takes a deeper dive into lesser-known and emerging wine regions like Michigan, New York or California’s Central Coast. The diversity of not only origin, but also winemaking styles reflects “just how dynamic American wine has become,” Varley says.
She’s been especially keen to highlight winegrowers closer to home like Modales Wines in Michigan’s Fennville AVA. The winery produces “vibrant, expressive wines with real character” that distinctly reflect their Michigan origins, she says. Modales leans into cold-hardy grapes varieties like blaufränkisch, the spicy Austrian red variety that has become a favorite by-the-glass pour at Ox Bar.
Modales is also one of only a handful of Michigan wineries to achieve USDA organic certification for two of its vineyards, meaning their grapes are grown without synthetic herbicides, fungicides, pesticides or fertilizers. For Varley, it’s evidence of a broader shift in American wine. Niche conversations about natural wines seem to be maturing into a more tangible focus on sustainability, healthier soils and reduced chemical inputs.
That shift is increasingly shaping what ends up in consumers’ glasses. Beyond region or grape variety, it’s worth considering how a wine is farmed and the stewardship behind it, an approach that also impacts the wine program at The Greggory in South Barrington. While The Greggory’s steakhouse menu calls for classic wines from Napa and Italy, years in Los Angeles also left wine director Albert Letizia with a lasting appreciation for California’s Central Coast. “You’re not paying Napa Valley prices, you’re getting a lot more bang for your buck down there, and there’s a bigger movement toward organic and biodynamic wines,” he says.
Among the producers he returns to most often is Stolpman Vineyards in Santa Barbara County’s Ballard Canyon. The certified organic and biodynamic estate has become just as well known for their commitment to their workforce through La Cuadrilla, a profit-sharing label created by owner Tom Stolpman and vineyard manager Rubén Solórzano. The project gives the winery’s year-round vineyard crew ownership of a small vineyard block, with profits from the wines returned to crew members.
But La Cuadrilla isn’t compelling just because of its mission.
“They’re really site-specific wines,” says Letizia. “You can really taste the Central Coast — the heat and ripeness of the valley canyon, but also the acidity and freshness from cool nights and the proximity to the Pacific Ocean. They’re just pure fruit.”
Cherish Varley, Ox Bar & Hearth assistant general manager/bar director, talks with customers Victoria Lopez and Konstantin Koval as she prepares to pour them glasses of Emme Wines pink lemonade selection out of California on June 20, 2026. (Chris Sweda/Chicago Tribune)
As American wine continues to evolve, the story is less about competing with Europe than about forging a distinctly American identity.
“It’s an exciting time for American winemaking,” says Varley, “where tradition, experimentation, and a deep respect for the land are all coming together in meaningful ways.”
Ox Bar & Hearth, 1578 N. Clybourn Ave.; 312-763-2222; oxbarchicago.com
The Greggory, 100 W. Higgins Road Unit C1, South Barrington; 847-551-5740; thegreggory.com
7 American wines for the Fourth of July
Modales 2022 Lake Michigan Shore Blaufränkisch ($24 at Modales)
Varley will likely spend Independence Day pouring American wines at Ox Bar, including this favorite. A floral, perfumed red with peppery spice and vibrant acidity, Modales’ blaufränkisch is a compelling expression of the Lake Michigan Shore, where the region’s cool, continental climate brings freshness, structure and remarkable finesse to this Austrian variety.
Emme Wines California Pink Lemonade Pink Wine ($30 at Independent Spirits)
Winemaker Rosalind Reynolds of Emme Wines is a rising star in Northern California, known for producing tiny quantities of fresh, lower-alcohol expressions of California emphasizing purity of fruit and overlooked vineyards and grape varieties. Varley pours Pink Lemonade, an electric-pink blend of abouriou, zinfandel, colombard, valdiguié and carignan by the glass at Ox Bar “chilled with our white wines,” she says. “On the nose, it’s like cranberry and pomegranate candy, but it’s bright and fresh on the palate with this ripping acidity.”
A selection of American wines at Ox Bar & Hearth. (Chris Sweda/Chicago Tribune)
Frog’s Leap Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25 at Binny’s)
“This Fourth of July, I’m drinking ice-cold sauvignon blanc from Frog’s Leap,” says Letizia. Family-owned and a pioneer in organic farming, the Napa Valley winery earned the region’s first California Certified Organic Farmers vineyard certification in 1989. It’s also a fantastic value, he says, a bright, thirst-quenching wine marked by vibrant acidity and freshness.
Stolpman Vineyards 2023 Ballard Canyon La Cuadrilla Red Blend ($23 at Binny’s)
At less than $30, La Cuadrilla is a remarkable introduction to Stolpman’s vibrant, fruit-driven style and the singular climate of Ballard Canyon, where syrah, grenache, mourvèdre and sangiovese combine to capture both the warmth of the valley and the freshness of its cool maritime influence.
Grgich Hills 2023 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($47 at Binny’s)
When the conversation turns to the Judgment of Paris tasting, Letizia points to this unmistakably California yet elegantly balanced chardonnay from Grgich Hills. Founder Miljenko Grgich was the winemaker who crafted the 1973 Chateau Montelena chardonnay that won the historic tasting. Today, Grgich Hills continues to push wine forward as one of Napa’s most pioneering leaders in regenerative agriculture.
Paradigm 2024 Napa Valley Rosé of Merlot ($40 at Albatross Wines)
A classic vin gris, Paradigm’s Rosé of Merlot is delicately pale yet surprisingly structured. “It’s got some grip to it, believe it or not,” says Letizia. “It has some tannin structure and these beautiful red-fruit flavors — it’s the perfect match for Italian sausage.” That’s exactly what he’ll be pouring this Fourth of July after a day on the Chain O’ Lakes, alongside sausage from Angelo Caputo’s Fresh Markets and barbecue chicken. Family owned and sustainably farmed, Paradigm’s 2024 rosé also marks the final vintage made by legendary Napa winemaker Heidi Barrett.
Tablas Creek Paso Robles Patelin de Tablas Blanc ($25 at Binny’s)
Tablas Creek was founded as a collaboration between the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and the Haas family, founders of the American wine importer Vineyard Brands. In 2020, it became the world’s first winery to be recognized with a Regenerative Organic Certified vineyard, helping to position Paso Robles at the forefront of the regenerative agriculture movement. Letizia loves the Patelin de Tablas Blanc for its “fragrant, floral aromatics, creamy texture and weight.” Sourced entirely from organically farmed vineyards across Paso Robles, the blend offers a vivid snapshot of the region through grenache blanc, viognier, roussanne, marsanne, vermentino and picpoul blanc.
Anna Lee Iijima is a freelance writer.