In Fort Worth at least, the word \u201ctaqueria\u201d implies certain things \u2014 namely, tacos, and namely, tacos made with traditional fillings, from beef and chicken to tripe and carnitas.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
It doesn\u2019t, in other words, typically refer to kimchi quesadillas, carne asada bao buns, or mole ramen.\u00a0<\/p>\n
But that\u2019s what you\u2019ll find at Sh\u014dgun Taqueria, a wonderfully unusual new spot in the Near Southside area that combines Mexican food with Japanese cuisine.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
Opened this past spring, the concept comes from Francisco \u201cPaco\u201d Islas, who closed his previous restaurant, Paco\u2019s Mexican Cuisine, to make way for Sh\u014dgun, which occupies the same Magnolia Avenue spot as Paco\u2019s.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
For eight years, Paco\u2019s served traditional Mexican dishes like birria tacos and molcajete. Impatient with an unpredictable economy that saw his following fluctuate and anxious to try something new, Islas closed Paco\u2019s and, after a two-month break, embarked on a forward-thinking journey that may very well mark a first in Fort Worth\u2019s dining scene.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cI knew I wanted to try something new, something that hadn\u2019t been done before,\u201d Islas says. \u201cI love Japanese food, and I love Mexican food. I just needed to find a way to bring them together.\u201d\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
For inspiration, Islas drew upon a collaborative Fort Worth Food + Wine Fest dinner he hosted with fellow Fort Worth chef Kevin Martinez, the executive chef at Tokyo Cafe. The two delivered a dinner that fused together elements of their areas of expertise.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cThat was an amazing experience,\u201d Islas says. \u201cI really hadn\u2019t done anything like that before, collaborate with another chef like that. The idea for Sh\u014dgun started there, and it\u2019s been with me ever since.\u201d\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
Sh\u014dgun Taqueria\u2019s menu offers a truly integrated fusion experience: Quesadillas generously stuffed with kimchi and Oaxaca cheese; savory Asian dumplings brimming with chicken, chipotle peppers, and ginger seasoning; and tonkatsu con mole, a crispy deep-fried pork cutlet draped in a rich, housemade red mole sauce.\u00a0<\/p>\n
There are several vegetarian options, including shiitake mushroom tacos served on local corn tortillas and a Japanese-inspired take on pozole.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
Drinks follow suit, with cocktails that artfully combine Mexican and Japanese elements, such as a sakura-infused margarita, a mezcal cocktail with bright yuzu citrus and Tajin, and a refreshing hibiscus sake sangria.\u00a0<\/p>\n
In a way, Sh\u014dgun carries a subtle echo of Islas\u2019 family history. His father, also named Francisco, co-owned Paco & John\u2019s on Eighth Avenue with renowned French chef Bernard Tronche of Saint-Emilion. From 2007 to 2014, Paco & John\u2019s offered a blend of Mexican and French cuisine, including intriguing dishes like escargot tacos.\u00a0<\/p>\n
After Paco & John\u2019s closed, Islas took over the business, relocating it to Magnolia Avenue in 2016 and rebranding it as Paco\u2019s Mexican Cuisine. A second location of Paco\u2019s opened in Sundance Square in the old Taco Diner space, but recently closed, allowing Islas to focus on Sh\u014dgun; at press time, he was in the process of opening an attached speakeasy bar.\u00a0<\/p>\n
For Islas, returning to Magnolia Avenue for this new chapter was a natural choice. \u201cThe Near Southside has been our home for many years, as both Paco\u2019s and Paco and John\u2019s,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s been a part of my family. I thought if I\u2019m going to open a new concept, I should do it here in an area my family and I know and love.\u201d \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n
Shogun Taqueria, 1508 W. Magnolia Ave., instagram.com\/shoguntaqueria<\/a> \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n