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A family friend joins owner Jose Luis (center) and his sister, Martha Luis (right), for a photo.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Photo by Andrew Lopez | Boyle Heights Beat<\/p>\n
This article<\/a> was originally published by Boyle Heights Beat<\/a>, a nonprofit newsroom of the L.A. Local News Initiative serving Boyle Heights and East L.A.<\/p>\n East Los Angeles<\/strong>\u2014When people think of East L.A., they often think first of El Mercadito and Cinco Puntos. However, to other longtime and former residents, their first thought is Birrieria Chalio. Located just five blocks east of El Mercadito, the smell of rich goat meat mixed with dried chili peppers and traditional seasonings fills the air.<\/p>\n
On a weekday last fall, Jose Luis, born in Zacatecas, Mexico, and owner of Birrieria Chalio, sat in one of his several circle booths covered in teal upholstery as he happily shared a YouTube video from his phone. That video is a short clip from the famed food series \u201cNo Reservations,\u201d which features the late Anthony Bourdain sitting with three mariachis in one of Birrieria Chalio\u2019s booths while enjoying a plate of roasted goat birria.<\/p>\n \u201cYou know, it changes everything. I mean, I got a celebrity coming down to Chalio\u2019s just to try my birria. It\u2019s awesome,\u201d Jose said about Bourdain\u2019s visit in 2007.<\/p>\n Rosalio G. Luis, the late father of the current owner, started selling tacos and birria from their backyard in East L.A. to make ends meet. His birria and consum\u00e9e were soon making waves among the East L.A. community.<\/p>\n Birrieria Chalio opened a street taco stand in the 1980s before opening its first brick-and-mortar in 1987. Its traditional birria recipe, which spans four generations, has not only kept customers coming from far distances, but has also allowed the family to expand its business to Texas and Washington state. However, like many restaurants across the nation, the COVID-19 pandemic and recent inflation created challenges for Jose to navigate. Although his business was able to adapt, he owes his continued success to his family unity and customer loyalty.\u00a0<\/p>\n Birria is a traditional Mexican dish most commonly made with goat meat, but can also be made with beef. The mixture of spices and ingredients can include onion, garlic, cumin, oregano, bay leaves, and red chili peppers. Chalio\u2019s birria is unique because it can be made with various cuts of meat, such as the goat\u2019s arm, shoulder, and rib.<\/p>\n Consomme is a broth-based soup often paired with birria plates or tacos for dipping.\u00a0<\/p>\n Photo by Andrew Lopez | Boyle Heights Beat<\/p>\n In addition to this traditional plate, customers can order a variety of plates, including chilaquiles, menudo, and pozole.<\/p>\n \u201cWe live far away in Palmdale, but we always come here to eat\u2026 The food here is really good, everything\u2019s got a great taste,\u201d said Gustavo Renter\u00eda, a returning customer who has been coming to Birrieria Chalio for more than 30 years.<\/p>\n During the pandemic, the restaurant had to completely shut down its indoor dining and resorted to take-out orders only. Additionally, it made the difficult decision to let go of all its employees. The only staff Birrieria Chalios had at that time was Jose, his wife, and his sister.<\/p>\n
\u201cWe struggled\u2026the two years [during the pandemic] we struggled so hard. We thought we were gonna lose it all. And we didn\u2019t. And we\u2019re still up here\u2026 we\u2019re still here alive,\u201d Jose said.<\/p>\n Jose and his family tried multiple creative ways to keep their family business afloat, like side curb pick-up or a mini drive-through for to-go orders. After much effort, his business managed to prevail despite the impact of COVID restrictions and eventually recovered after a devastating lockdown.<\/p>\n However, the increase in food and supply costs created further challenges for the restaurant.<\/p>\n \u201cEverything\u2019s so expensive. The minimum is going up again. It\u2019s kind of hard to compete with the prices. As it is, it\u2019s kind of expensive already,\u201d Jose said.<\/p>\n To keep up with rising costs, he went from buying 300 goat carcasses a week pre-pandemic to solely 30 for their traditional birria. The rise of inflation negatively affected the prices of the restaurant and even led to customers complaining that the food was getting too expensive.<\/p>\n Typically, a plate of birria costs around $24 and it includes rice, beans, tortillas and its consum\u00e9e.<\/p>\n \u201cIt\u2019s kind of hard sometimes; people get mad at me. \u2018Hey, you, you want to get richer faster by charging more?\u2019 I tell them it\u2019s not me. It\u2019s the prices everywhere you go. Gas, market, wherever you go, it\u2019s the same thing. There\u2019s nothing we could do, I tell them.\u201d<\/p>\n Other customers, however, have positive things to say. Like Alexander Zelada, who said, \u201cI know them for their dishes and the service is good. The food is always fresh.\u201d<\/p>\n Jose grew up with the pressure of being Birrieria Chalio\u2019s future business owner so the negative comments never really got to him. In his childhood, Jose\u2019s dad always told him, \u201cTe tienes que poner las pilas.\u201d Jose considers himself a problem solver and adapts to dire circumstances.<\/p>\n He\u2019s a firm believer that managing a business is based on the family itself. He believes that a key component in successfully managing an establishment is keeping greed and envy out of the family.<\/p>\n \u201cYou all have to be united. You know, that\u2019s the main key. No envidia. No nothing. Everybody has to be together\u2026 That\u2019s a perfect thing to do,\u201d Jose states.<\/p>\n Martha Luis, a sister of the owner and employee of the restaurant, pours consomme on a plate of goat meat.\u00a0<\/p>\n Photo by Andrew Lopez | Boyle Heights Beat<\/p>\n 370 Monthly Reader Sponsors and Counting!<\/p>\n Join the more than 300 readers who make monthly contributions to The Eastsider..<\/p>\n Even a small monthly contribution will create a more stable source of revenue, giving us confidence to expand staff and provide you with more of the community news you can\u2019t find anywhere else.<\/p>\n \u2014Jes\u00fas Sanchez, Publisher<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"A family friend joins owner Jose Luis (center) and his sister, Martha Luis (right), for a photo.\u00a0 Photo…\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":279268,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5123],"tags":[144369,1582,276,144370,2961,224,5337],"class_list":{"0":"post-279267","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-los-angeles","8":"tag-birrieria-chalio","9":"tag-ca","10":"tag-california","11":"tag-jose-luis","12":"tag-la","13":"tag-los-angeles","14":"tag-losangeles"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@us\/115321032323238449","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/279267","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=279267"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/279267\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/279268"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=279267"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=279267"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=279267"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
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