There\u2019s a peculiar thrill in breaking free from the daily grind \u2014 the kind of escape you chase when every day as a reporter is unpredictable, yet somehow familiar. This week, I found that feeling of liberation not on a weekend trip, but inside the newly opened Dos Mares, a restaurant that immediately makes you forget you\u2019re in Fort Worth.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Dos Mares is the sister concept to Don Artemio, the acclaimed fine-dining spot from father-son duo Chef Juan Ram\u00f3n C\u00e1rdenas and Chef Rodrigo C\u00e1rdenas. While Don Artemio celebrates high-end Mexican fare, Dos Mares dives into the rich culinary narratives of Mexico\u2019s two oceans \u2014 the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific. From the moment you approach the speakeasy-style door, aqua green tiles glimmering along the walls, the restaurant feels like a brief vacation \u2014 an oceanic escape tucked into the city\u2019s West 7th corridor.\u00a0<\/p>\n
I settled at the bar, scanning a menu that reads like a tour of Mexico\u2019s coasts. The Balazo de Ostion \u2014 an oyster shooter with cucumber, cilantro, onion, lime, and a housemade clam and tomato juice \u2014 immediately caught my eye. Then there\u2019s the Crudos: aguachile verde with red onion, cucumber, chile serrano, cactus-lime sorbet, and your choice of shrimp or scallops. For the uninitiated, the Dos Mares staff are more than willing to guide you through the menu with both knowledge and charm.\u00a0<\/p>\n
I began with the Ceviche Negro, featuring Texas striped seabass in a Yucatecan Recado lime sauce, paired with cucumber and a tostada crowned with ash garlic aioli and avocado mousse. It was refreshing, with a touch of grit in the best way possible. The accompanying tostada chips \u2014 served with a tomatillo and traditional salsa, as well as ancho mayo \u2014 were an addictive prelude to the main event. I opted for the Pollito de Leche Estilo Sinaloa \u2014 a half Cornish hen, bathed in an oven-baked lemon, mustard, and garlic sauce, accompanied by roasted vegetables. The meat practically melted on the tongue, leaving behind just a whisper of citrus.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Chef Rodrigo C\u00e1rdenas stopped by to share the vision behind Dos Mares. Contrary to what the name might suggest, it\u2019s not about livestock \u2014 \u201cMares\u201d is shorthand for Mariscos, Spanish for seafood. The restaurant celebrates Mexico\u2019s two coastlines, each lending flavors and inspiration to the dishes. \u201cWe wanted to focus on the 17 coastal states of Mexico, each with very different backgrounds and culinary traditions,\u201d he explained, describing a two-year menu development process that included months of experimentation with staff, friends, and family. Seasonal changes are already planned to highlight the breadth of Mexico\u2019s coastal cuisine.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The design of Dos Mares reinforces the concept: hand-painted tiles mimic the colors of Mexico\u2019s oceans, palapa palms were handmade in Michoac\u00e1n, and every detail \u2014 from the chairs to the music \u2014 evokes a coastal Mexican experience. \u201cFrom the atmosphere to the food preparation, every detail has deep ties to the coasts of Mexico,\u201d\u00a0Rodrigo said.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The menu itself is a celebration of traditional techniques and flavors \u2014 from Zarandeado, where fish is split, marinated, and grilled over open flame, to La Reina de Comal, a thick tortilla topped with Mexican tomato sauce, refried beans, cotija cheese, and shrimp from Veracruz. Dos Mares also offers a curated wine list, each bottle connected to coastal regions around the globe, designed to complement the seafood-forward dishes.\u00a0<\/p>\n
And speaking of spirits. I ordered the Cucumber Mint Mule made with mezcal, cucumber mint jalape\u00f1o syrup, lime, and ginger beer. The aftertaste was complex all the way to the very last drop. It also paired well with the Ceviche Negro. \u00a0<\/p>\n
Walking out of Dos Mares, I felt transported. It\u2019s rare for a restaurant to make you forget your surroundings while also connecting you so vividly to another culture. As Rodrigo summed it up, \u201cWe\u2019re bringing the flavors of Mexico\u2019s Gulf and Pacific coasts to Fort Worth \u2014 all in one spot, but with very different cuisines from very different oceans.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n