{"id":417991,"date":"2025-12-01T20:55:20","date_gmt":"2025-12-01T20:55:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/417991\/"},"modified":"2025-12-01T20:55:20","modified_gmt":"2025-12-01T20:55:20","slug":"el-molino-trades-mexican-staples-for-high-fashion-tex-mex-flair","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/417991\/","title":{"rendered":"El Molino Trades Mexican Staples for High-Fashion Tex-Mex Flair"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Walking into El Molino, tucked away in the food-centric Snider Plaza where Vandelay Hospitality already owns outposts East Hampton Sandwich Co., Jack &amp; Harry\u2019s and Bar Sardine, diners can expect to find something familiar.  <\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s clear that the Vandelay design team drew inspiration from Casa Vega, a Los Angeles restaurant named an <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.jamesbeard.org\/stories\/announcing-the-2022-americas-classics-winners\">American Classic by the James Beard Awards in 2022<\/a>. The same tufted leather booths line the walls, heavy wooden chairs and ambient red lights set the mood. Gold-lined mirrors hang alongside antique Mexican portraits on the walls,\u00a0minus any hint of whimsy or kitsch, and the furniture is more Spanish Colonial than Mexican rustic.\u00a0 <\/p>\n<p>\u201cEl Molino is a place that I wanted to exist in Dallas that pairs fun Mexican food with similar sexy vibes like Drake\u2019s and Jack &amp; Harry\u2019s,\u201d says CEO Hunter Pond on the inspiration for the restaurant. Wood-fired fajitas are the \u201cheart\u201d of the menu, along with a \u201ccozy, intimate setting.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s unclear why El Molino is marketed as a Mexican restaurant, however, since the menu is largely composed of classic Tex-Mex dishes.<\/p>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWe\u2019re thankful for you. Are you thankful for us?\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<p class=\"fundraising-thermometer-body\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWe feel thankful for our staff and for the privilege of fulfilling our mission to be an unparalleled source of information and insight in Dallas. We\u2019re aiming to raise $30,000 by December 31, so we can continue covering what matters most to this community. <br \/>Help us continue giving back to Dallas.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<p>Interestingly, the menu got smaller in the week after I made my reservation: All strictly vegetarian dishes were removed. <\/p>\n<p>New Ventures <\/p>\n<p>This is the first venture into Mexican food by the hospitality group that was <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.restaurant-hospitality.com\/policy-regulation\/former-employee-files-dallas-lawsuit-charging-vandelay-hospitality-group-with-fostering-racist-sexist-and-homophobic-environment-for-workers-and-customers\">sued by its own employees in 2021<\/a> in a labor and employment practices suit that included allegations of discriminatory hiring practices, profiling of guests and use of <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dallasobserver.com\/food-drink\/dress-code-policies-continue-to-draw-allegations-of-racism-at-dallas-restaurants-17062316\/\">dress codes to deny people of color service or reservations<\/a>. There was also allegedly a \u201cforced ranking\u201d system that allowed employees to be fired on the basis of race, gender and sexual orientation (at the time, the group denied the allegations and it has <a target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" href=\"https:\/\/www.dmagazine.com\/food-drink\/2023\/09\/dallas-based-vandelay-hospitality-group-settled-three-lawsuits-last-month\/\">subsequently settled the lawsuits<\/a>). Yes, El Molino does have a \u201cbusiness casual\u201d dress code.\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>At El Molino, various proteins are served as fajitas, enchiladas, quesadillas, tacos al carbon and nachos. For mysterious reasons, the branzino, which is generally caught in the Mediterranean or Black Seas, is offered Veracruz-style ($36.99). Perhaps the Gulf of Mexico is fresh out of red snapper, or perhaps Vandelay thinks Park Cities diners won\u2019t bear the price markup. Also unexplained is the presence of a Las Vegas rib-eye ($48.99), served with guajillo pineapple nectar, unless it is a random nod to the city\u2019s history as a Mexican territory. There is also a cheeseburger, which is a shame because it would have been so easy to call it a hamburguresa and keep pushing.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"864\" height=\"648\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/el-Molino-Guacamole-Courtney-Smith.png\" alt=\"guacamole at El Molino\" class=\"wp-image-40622391\" style=\"width:1035px;height:auto\"  \/>The guacamole at El Molino comes with a few quesadilla triangles. <\/p>\n<p>For Starters \u2026 <\/p>\n<p>The meal starts where it does at any Tex-Mex spot, with a basket of tortilla chips and a bowl of salsa. The chips are made from corn tortillas purchased elsewhere (our server did not know from where), cut into strips, and fried every half hour or so. They have a light glaze of oil and fresh salt to prove it, but the tortillas tasted a bit stale. The salsa is the platonic ideal of salsa roja made in a blender. The color and acidity are picture-perfect, with just enough onion and jalape\u00f1o mix to add flavor, but not so much that it will send your taste buds into the stratosphere.\u00a0 <\/p>\n<p>The appetizer menu is concise, and it seems to be a mix of apps and kids\u2019 menu items. The guacamole ($12.99) was fresh, featuring light green avocados that were only lightly mashed to retain their chunky texture, along with lime juice. There are also chunks of radish and corn sprinkled on top. With it comes three triangles of a quesadilla, which is an unexpected but welcome addition. The house margarita on the rocks ($15) is delightful, hitting the right mix of blanco tequila and fresh lime juice with orange liqueur, doing what it\u2019s supposed to do.  <\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"864\" height=\"589\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/12\/El-Molino-Fajitas-Courtney-Smith.png\" alt=\"Fajitas at El Molino\" class=\"wp-image-40622392\" style=\"width:1035px;height:auto\"  \/>The fajitas at El Molino awash in butter and oil <\/p>\n<p>Jumbo Mains <\/p>\n<p>Moving to the most authentically Mexican food on the menu, the jumbo crab and shrimp enchiladas ($34.99) are a rich, buttery dish covered in mozzarella cheese, offering far more spice than expected based on the rest of the meal, from which any spice, be it hot or Mexican-inspired, was largely missing. The peppers in question appeared to be dried chipotles or chiles de \u00e1rbol, served as part of the house play on a smooth ranchero \u201cMolino sauce.\u201d The plate came with the expected sides of Mexican rice, which was rich in vegetable flavors, and, despite informing the server that my dinner companion is a pescatarian, a side of refried beans made with pork lard had a strangely beefy taste. There was also a small scoop of elotes, which is another good enhancement, and a few pickled vegetables.  <\/p>\n<p>The chicken fajitas ($24.99) did not pack nearly the same flavor punch, and were perplexingly served on a silver tray rather than the traditional sizzling skillet. The chicken appeared to have been seasoned with a dry rub, which meant the meat tasted more like dry medallions from a roasted chicken rather than the long, thin strips typically used for fajitas. The meat sat in the butter and oil it was cooked in, along with wilted, charred whole green onions, half of a tomato, peppers, white onions and half a deeply charred, fully seeded jalape\u00f1o.<\/p>\n<p>The usual sides included a small scoop of sour cream, guacamole, shredded cheddar cheese and more of those pickled vegetables that seem ever-present and ever likely to go ignored. The waiter warned me that I would only receive four tortillas \u2014\u00a0from that same unknown local vendor \u2014 with an unspoken threat that more would cost extra. Not very hospitable, to say the least. The tortillas came sandwiched between two plates and were wrapped in a red napkin. Perhaps there is something to be deduced from the fact that El Molino found the budget for Aztec-inspired sculptures around the bathroom entrance but not for tortilla warmers.  <\/p>\n<p>Cheesecake for the Win <\/p>\n<p>For dessert, there are two options: vanilla ice cream topped with cinnamon ($5) served as a single scoop in a dish, or a sopapilla cheesecake ($12). Both have at best marginal connections to Mexican cuisine. Save your money on the ice cream and opt for the cheesecake, which is decadently creamy and features a crescent-roll-like crust, topped with a hard cinnamon and sugar layer. It may be the second most Mexican dish in the joint.<\/p>\n<p>There were some hiccups with the service, which mostly involved the utter neglect of our empty water glasses and the kitchen\u2019s oversight of our request to exclude beans from the plate due to dietary reasons, which is no small matter. The overall experience lends itself to many restaurants in Snider Plaza as places that people who live in the area will likely visit out of convenience, while those who don\u2019t may not even realize they exist. The latter group isn\u2019t missing much at El Molino.<\/p>\n<p>El Molino, 6818 Snider Plaza, Monday \u2013 Sunday 11 a.m. \u2013 10 p.m. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Walking into El Molino, tucked away in the food-centric Snider Plaza where Vandelay Hospitality already owns outposts East&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":417992,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5135],"tags":[5229,1596,80162,358,3187,67,586,132,5230,68,2969],"class_list":{"0":"post-417991","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-dallas","8":"tag-america","9":"tag-dallas","10":"tag-restaurant-reviews","11":"tag-texas","12":"tag-tx","13":"tag-united-states","14":"tag-united-states-of-america","15":"tag-unitedstates","16":"tag-unitedstatesofamerica","17":"tag-us","18":"tag-usa"},"share_on_mastodon":{"url":"https:\/\/pubeurope.com\/@us\/115646308699581839","error":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/417991","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=417991"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/417991\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/417992"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=417991"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=417991"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.europesays.com\/us\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=417991"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}