With new border formalities coming to Europe, these countries offer a pleasing alternative for a short getaway
This weekend, the European Union finally begins to roll out its new Entry/Exit System (EES). With third-country nationals required to provide biometric information (including fingerprints and facial photographs) when entering the Schengen Area, Britons will face longer queues and more red tape at passport control.
If you prefer your city breaks without added bureaucracy, it is time to look at the continent’s lesser-visited destinations, where border formalities are a breeze. From Tbilisi’s buzzing wine bars to a sun-soaked bayside city in Montenegro, here are the best destinations outside Schengen for an autumn escape…
Izmir, Turkey
City life and coastal relaxation: Izmir (Photo: Elif Bayraktar/Getty)
Perched on Turkey’s sun-drenched Aegean coast, Izmir is the country’s third most populous city. “Izmir provides the perfect blend of city life and coastal relaxation,” says Kelly Jackson of tour operator Trafalgar. “And with more than 8,500 years of history, it is the gateway to ancient treasures.”
One of those treasures is nearby Unesco World Heritage-listed Ephesus, where you can stroll through Greek and Roman ruins before admiring the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Ancient Wonders of the World.
Izmir’s “Cittaslow” designation also ensures the city is your gateway to local, traditional food and a slower pace of life. Look out for street food including boyoz pastries from traditional bakeries in Alsancak and bagel-like gevrek.
Take a relaxed walk along Kordon promenade, visit the ruins of the Roman Agora, or enjoy a slow journey along the Urla Vineyard Route. Several mineral hot springs also lie nearby.
Trafalgar’s 10-day Highlights of Turkey tour includes both Izmir and Ephesus, from £1,764pp.
Sarajevo, Bosnia & Herzegovina
Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina (Photo: Adnan Bubalo/Getty/iStockphoto)
“Sarajevo is the heart of Bosnia & Herzegovina,” says Charlotte McCutcheon at Headwater Holidays, which has had a 19 per cent increase in bookings for Balkan destinations this year. “It’s renowned for its multicultural history, and the perfect destination for history lovers.”
She recommends sipping strong Bosnian coffee and digging into Ćevapi (Bosnian-style kebab) in Bašcaršija, the Ottoman-era bazaar. From there it is a short walk to Latin Bridge, scene of Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s assassination in 1914.
Husrev-Beg Mosque and Sacred Heart Cathedral showcase the city’s religious diversity, while the Tunnel of Hope provides an account of the Siege of Sarajevo, when conflict tore Bosnia apart in the 90s.
The city is also good value for British visitors – a meal in a mid-range restaurant typically costs less than £30 for two people, while a beer costs around £2.30 and a coffee less than £2.
Ryanair flies from Stansted to Sarajevo. Pino Nature Hotel, in pine-forested hills just outside the city, has doubles from £95. In the city centre, Hotel Baskuca has stylish doubles from €233 (£202) B&B.
Headwater’s week-long Walking the Olympic Mountains of Bosnia tour uses Sarajevo as a base for mountain hikes and the bobsleigh track used in the 1984 Winter Olympics, from £1,189pp.
Tbilisi, Georgia
A wine cellar in Meidan Bazaar in the Old Town of Tbilisi (Photo: efired/Getty/iStock Editorial)
With minimal red tape (visa-free visits of up to a year) alongside new direct flights from easyJet and BA, it’s never been easier to visit the capital of Georgia.
This is a welcoming city where the old town is a network of cobbled streets and medieval buildings dotted with cafés and galleries, while Vera is a bohemian neighbourhood of Soviet architecture and cool cafés such as sourdough specialist Pulp and brunch restaurant Aureo Dining, with dishes costing around £7.
Discover an 8,000-year-old winemaking heritage in Tbilisi’s wine bars (try a degustation at 8000 Vintages , or sample the extensive Wine Library at Wine Factory No 1) before visiting the winemakers in the surrounding countryside.
Eat This Tours offers Wine Harvest Tours in late October and early November from £95pp. Doubles at the boutique Rooms Tbilisi from £112.
Tirana, Albania
Namazgah mosque in Tirana (Photo: Avatarmin/Getty/Moment RF)
Albania’s visitor numbers have more than doubled in the past decade. For Ben Colbridge at Exodus Adventure Travels, this is no surprise.
“The country offers visitors stunning landscapes and an interesting history,” he says. “Tirana, the capital city, is known for its colourful architecture, Ottoman and Italian influences, and also a great café culture.”
The best way to experience those multicultural influences is in restaurants such as Era, where wood-fired pizza and handmade ravioli are served alongside Kosovar sausages and Elbasan casserole.
Alternatively, pick up cheap byrek pastries filled with spinach or tomatoes from bakeries that will fuel a walk from Skanderbeg Square to the hip Blloku district and Tirana Lake Park.
Explore the legacy of Enver Hoxha, Albania’s paranoid Communist dictator, in Cold War bunkers now transformed into art galleries, or ride the Dajti Express Cable Car to Dajti Mountain’s 1,600m-high summit for sweeping panoramas.
Arté Boutique Hotel in Blloku has doubles from 14,500 Lek (£130), while Lot Boutique Hotel has doubles from €68 (£59). Tirana is served from the UK by British Airways, Ryanair and Wizz Air.
Exodus’s 10-day Highlights of Albania tour visits the Albanian Riviera’s turquoise bays, Gjirokastër’s Ottoman streets, and the serene shores of Lake Ohrid, from £1,219pp.
Kotor, Montenegro
Beautiful Kotor bay in Montenegro (Photo: Getty/Moment RF)
Montenegro may use the euro, but it is not yet part of the EU, nor Schengen. And while prices may be high next door in Dubrovnik on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, 60 miles south-east, Kotor offers a quieter and more economical alternative.
“Kotor offers fantastic weather and stunning bay views,” Jet2holidays’ James Pieslak says of the walled city. “With low prices and warm Adriatic waters, it’s a relaxed, scenic destination.”
It is ringed by mountains and imposing Venetian walls, inside which you can explore winding medieval streets before enjoying panoramic views of the Bay of Kotor after a steep hike to Kotor Fort.
Take a boat ride to Our Lady of the Rocks, a picturesque “floating” church located on an artificial island in the bay, or head to nearby Tivat, where white sands await.
Jet2Holidays has a week’s B&B at four-star Palma Hotel Tivat from £559pp, including Stansted flights and transfers.
Larnaca, Cyprus
The promenade at Finikoudes beach in Larnaca (Photo: Getty)
Cyprus is another EU country outside the Schengen Zone, meaning there is no EES to worry about before soaking up sunny October highs of 28°C.
Known as the gateway to coastal resorts such as Ayia Napa, overlooked Larnaca merits a few days’ exploration. Tania Peck from Visit Cyprus says: “It ticks all the boxes for a great city break, particularly in the shoulder and winter months.”
The Old Town is compact and walkable. The long Finikoudes promenade offers Mediterranean seafront strolls and places to pause for a coffee or a beer.
Or you could climb the ramparts of Larnaca’s 14th-century medieval castle. Another historic highlight is the ninth-century church dedicated to Lazarus of Bethany, whom Jesus is said to have resurrected.
Zephyros Beach Tavern, by the fishing shelters on Kastella Beach, is the place for authentic seafood mezze.
Peck describes Larnaca as a “melting pot of cultures” – something you can see with a visit to the Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque, which sits on the shores of Larnaca Salt Lake. The perfect place, she adds, to watch the sun set.
Larnaca is served by easyJet, Wizz Air, Jet2 and BA. Doubles at the adults-only Hotel Indigo Larnaca, which has a rooftop swimming pool, from £145 B&B.
Cork, Ireland
The 19th century English Market in the centre of Cork City (Photo: Allan Baxter/Getty)
The Republic of Ireland is an EU member, but has never joined Schengen. Ireland and the UK instead form the Common Travel Area, and Britons technically don’t even need a passport to visit the Emerald Isle.
On Ireland’s southern shores, Cork is a hassle-free city break. “It’s a walkable city, with a thriving restaurant scene, cosy pubs hosting trad music sessions, and city parks which come alive with autumn colours,” says Judith Cassidy at Tourism Ireland. “Cork is also considered Ireland’s foodie capital, so it’s an ideal time to tuck into the abundance of seasonal produce.”
Cassidy recommends specialities Gubbeen cheese, smoked fish and Clonakilty black pudding at the Victorian-era covered English Market. It is perfect fuel for events including Cork’s annual Dragon of Shandon parade on Samhain (arounf the time of Halloween) and the Cork Jazz Festival (23-27 October).
Fly to Cork with Ryanair, or take advantage of Rail and Sail fares with Irish Ferries, Brittany Ferries and DFDS. The Dean Cork has an indoor swimming pool and sauna, with doubles from £121.
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