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Restaurant Review: Emeril’sEmeril Lagasse’s son has completely reworked Emeril’s, his father’s 35-year-old flagship restaurant in the Warehouse District of New Orleans. Tejal Rao, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times, shares her review.

Is a teeny tiny po’boy that holds a single oyster. a little bit ridiculous? Yes — and is it delicious? That too. I think maybe I forgot fine dining can be all of these things at once until I went to Emeril’s in New Orleans. You might associate Emeril’s with the famous first name-only celebrity chef who opened it in 1990, but the restaurant was recently taken over by his son. He renovated it, and reimagined it as a very serious fancy restaurant, but one that is also clearly having a ton of fun with the ideas and the mechanics of fine dining. It reminded me of how a great tasting menu needs not just talent and technical precision, but also energy, excitement and a sincere affection for the form itself. Some of my favorite bites were the pitch-dark gumbo that was impossibly full of flavor. A trout almondine — it was just a fantastic piece of fish, cooked just right in foaming butter. There’s something a little vintage-feeling, a little ’90s, about the style of cooking and the presentation, and the emphasis on luxury and the reverence for culinary history and the restaurant’s own past. You can read my full review on nytimes.com.

Emeril Lagasse’s son has completely reworked Emeril’s, his father’s 35-year-old flagship restaurant in the Warehouse District of New Orleans. Tejal Rao, a chief restaurant critic for The New York Times, shares her review.

By Nyt Food

October 20, 2025