Ronnie Killen is adding some serious culinary firepower to his restaurant group. Known for his two Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand establishments — Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland and Southern-inspired comfort food restaurant Killen’s — as well as his eponymous steakhouse, Killen has brought on chef Ryan Hildebrand as his group’s new culinary director.
Hildebrand is well known to Houston diners. He’s best known for Triniti, a fine dining restaurant near River Oaks that operated from 2012-17. Hildebrand also created FM Kitchen, the comfort food restaurant that was recently combined with PKL Social. Veteran Houston diners will remember his stints at fine dining restaurants such as Mark’s and Textile. Most recently, he’s been the chef and owner of Hildee’s, a restaurant in Wimberly that closed in July.
From Killen’s perspective, Hildebrand brings skills that pair well with his own. He knows fine dining and Texas culinary traditions, making him a perfect fit for Killen’s, the chef’s restaurant near Washington Avenue that’s best known for dishes like fried chicken, chicken fried steak, and fried seafood. Killen sees an opportunity to elevate the restaurant’s fare and earn an even higher level of recognition.
“He’s been putting his spin on Texas food. I’ve been watching it from afar,” Killen tells CultureMap. “I thought it will go well with the Heights. It has a Bib Gourmand. He can move it up to a one-star place.”
Hildebrand explains that he wanted to bring his family — his wife Mollye and their two daughters — back to Houston. After being connected to Killen by mutual friends, he realized that they could have a productive professional relationship.
“We’re both in a place where we can help each other out,” Hildebrand says. “He’s got a lot going on. I’m ready to come back to Houston. Personality wise, it’s a great fit. We get along, and we have a common vision for expanding on what he’s already done.”
Although it’ll be about a month before Hildebrand is in Houston full-time, he’ll soon begin spending more time in Houston and getting to know the restaurant’s staff. The chef says he’s already thinking about ways to elevate what Killen’s offers.
“Utilizing his barbecue in different ways is something I want to explore,” Hildebrand says. “The building blocks are all there. If we’re utilizing the brisket or sausages in a different way, to push it to the next level and elevate it. The core elements are there for me to utilize and build upon. It’s ready to crystalize an identity of its own to represent him and his brand.”
Some of the dishes Hildebrand developed for Hildee’s may be adapted for Killen’s. For example, the chef created a variation on the popular miso cod that uses Texas redfish. He also wants to bring back dishes such as fried catfish, which were customer favorites that fell off the menu awhile back. It’s that sort of insight that chef Killen is looking for from Hildebrand.
“You very seldom get opportunities to hire people with his skill level,” Killen says. “We need a set of eyes besides me who can look at the restaurants and see what we need.”
Expect Hildebrand to focus on Killen’s for between six months and a year. From there, he plans to work with chef Killen at the group’s other restaurants. As Killen discussed in a 2024 appearance on CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast, he wants the Pearland steakhouse to once again be considered among Houston’s very best. He’s been quietly investing in equipment upgrades to further that goal. With Hildebrand on board, he hopes to achieve the same level of Michelin recognition for the steakhouse as his two other restaurants.
For Hildebrand, the opportunity to focus on food, cooking, and mentoring is a welcome break from the challenges of operating an ambitious, food-focused restaurant in a small town.
“A year ago, two years ago, five years ago, maybe Ronnie wasn’t ready to do what he’s doing now,” Hildebrand says. “I wasn’t ready either. We both are now. It’s working out. The universe put the pieces together for me. I think it’s going to be really good. I haven’t been excited like this in a long time. “
Photo by L. Robert Westeen