There’s a peculiar thrill in breaking free from the daily grind — the kind of escape you chase when every day as a reporter is unpredictable, yet somehow familiar. This week, I found that feeling of liberation not on a weekend trip, but inside the newly opened Dos Mares, a restaurant that immediately makes you forget you’re in Fort Worth.
Dos Mares is the sister concept to Don Artemio, the acclaimed fine-dining spot from father-son duo Chef Juan Ramón Cárdenas and Chef Rodrigo Cárdenas. While Don Artemio celebrates high-end Mexican fare, Dos Mares dives into the rich culinary narratives of Mexico’s two oceans — the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific. From the moment you approach the speakeasy-style door, aqua green tiles glimmering along the walls, the restaurant feels like a brief vacation — an oceanic escape tucked into the city’s West 7th corridor.
I settled at the bar, scanning a menu that reads like a tour of Mexico’s coasts. The Balazo de Ostion — an oyster shooter with cucumber, cilantro, onion, lime, and a housemade clam and tomato juice — immediately caught my eye. Then there’s the Crudos: aguachile verde with red onion, cucumber, chile serrano, cactus-lime sorbet, and your choice of shrimp or scallops. For the uninitiated, the Dos Mares staff are more than willing to guide you through the menu with both knowledge and charm.
I began with the Ceviche Negro, featuring Texas striped seabass in a Yucatecan Recado lime sauce, paired with cucumber and a tostada crowned with ash garlic aioli and avocado mousse. It was refreshing, with a touch of grit in the best way possible. The accompanying tostada chips — served with a tomatillo and traditional salsa, as well as ancho mayo — were an addictive prelude to the main event. I opted for the Pollito de Leche Estilo Sinaloa — a half Cornish hen, bathed in an oven-baked lemon, mustard, and garlic sauce, accompanied by roasted vegetables. The meat practically melted on the tongue, leaving behind just a whisper of citrus.
Chef Rodrigo Cárdenas stopped by to share the vision behind Dos Mares. Contrary to what the name might suggest, it’s not about livestock — “Mares” is shorthand for Mariscos, Spanish for seafood. The restaurant celebrates Mexico’s two coastlines, each lending flavors and inspiration to the dishes. “We wanted to focus on the 17 coastal states of Mexico, each with very different backgrounds and culinary traditions,” he explained, describing a two-year menu development process that included months of experimentation with staff, friends, and family. Seasonal changes are already planned to highlight the breadth of Mexico’s coastal cuisine.
The design of Dos Mares reinforces the concept: hand-painted tiles mimic the colors of Mexico’s oceans, palapa palms were handmade in Michoacán, and every detail — from the chairs to the music — evokes a coastal Mexican experience. “From the atmosphere to the food preparation, every detail has deep ties to the coasts of Mexico,” Rodrigo said.
The menu itself is a celebration of traditional techniques and flavors — from Zarandeado, where fish is split, marinated, and grilled over open flame, to La Reina de Comal, a thick tortilla topped with Mexican tomato sauce, refried beans, cotija cheese, and shrimp from Veracruz. Dos Mares also offers a curated wine list, each bottle connected to coastal regions around the globe, designed to complement the seafood-forward dishes.
And speaking of spirits. I ordered the Cucumber Mint Mule made with mezcal, cucumber mint jalapeño syrup, lime, and ginger beer. The aftertaste was complex all the way to the very last drop. It also paired well with the Ceviche Negro.
Walking out of Dos Mares, I felt transported. It’s rare for a restaurant to make you forget your surroundings while also connecting you so vividly to another culture. As Rodrigo summed it up, “We’re bringing the flavors of Mexico’s Gulf and Pacific coasts to Fort Worth — all in one spot, but with very different cuisines from very different oceans.”
Dos Mares is located at 3260 West 7th St. and is open Tuesday through Sunday for lunch and dinner, with weekend brunches. dosmares.us.